Have you noticed how popular bike riding has become? And how seriously many take a recreational ride on the ‘treadly’? Not content to just ‘get back on the bike’, some are even willing to don padded lycra which enhance their posterior curves! While such dedication is not for us, Kenn and I have got back into riding in a low key, purely recreational manner. We have uncovered a series of short, easy yet scenic bike rides, in and around Byron that we, very much tongue in check, like to think of as the ‘Tour de Byron.’
We were inspired to buy new bikes and hit the bike trails following a visit to Rottnest Island in Western Australia, where bikes are the transportation of choice. The island is only 11km long and 4.5km wide, making it easy to explore with a number of great trails to follow.
Soon, we were zooming up and down car-free, paved tracks exploring beautiful bays, jetties, beaches and a beautiful Lighthouse. Even the pelicans said ‘hello’!
I had forgotten how exhilarating it is to roll along with the wind in your hair, putting in a bit of effort here, gliding along there. We even spotted a couple of quokkas and a great pub. Perfect for a well earned refreshment after such strenuous activity.
Back on the east coast, we set about getting ourselves some bikes. This was not an easy task as there are ‘bikes’ and then there are ‘real bikes’. Not wishing to remortgage the house, we decided on fairly basic, comfortable models. Mine is a lovely grey and white number with a retro feel, complete with basket. It also has a lovely padded seat; no need for lycra! I will admit to finding the gears a trifle challenging … a work in progress.
With bikes sorted, Kenn and I explored the bikes paths and rides in and around Byron. We thought that like the famous tours, we would allocate a stage to each ride, beginning with the easiest.
Stage I of the Tour de Byron: the Suffolk Park Bike Track
This is a great track for beginners and one of my favourites. I can roll down the hill from my place to the Soccer Grounds.
Past a lovely avenue of trees andthe ever expanding community garden with the children’s playground in the distance.
A little bit of cross country riding and I am at the roundabout in front of the BP service station on Broken Head Rd. Here I have to dismount and walk my bike across the road, but it’s no hardship because I have time to admire the waterlilies beside the path.
Having crossed the road, I remount and ride around the Pub and past the Suffolk shops. I resist the urge to stop at the Bakery for a coffee and cake. I tell myself, I haven’t burnt enough calories yet. I weave through Suffolk Park until at the far end of Alcorn Street, I reach the official beginning of the bike path. There are various exit points on this part of the path which lead directly onto the beach as well.
The path meanders through the heath, following the sand dunes and comes out just south of the High School
It is a lovely feeling riding along the path with the scents of the bush and the sounds of the surf and birdsong all around.
It’s not too hot, as there is quite a lot of dappled shade to keep you cool
Occasionally, I encounter someone walking along the path, usually with their dog. I haven’t run anyone over … yet. I’ve noticed that people tend to move very quickly when I call out as I ring my bell, ‘ Beginner bike rider coming through!’
My favourite part of the track is crossing Tallow Creek. The light on the water is always changing, always beautiful.
The storm is building up in the distance
It’s also a test of my riding. A certain amount of speed is necessary to stay steady and not wobble on the wooden bridge.
Over the bridge, I leave the beach behind, following the track back to Broken Head Road. Here I could turn right and ride into town or turn left and ride home. I choose to ride home. A 6km ride is just perfect for this beginner!
There are various bike rental shops in Byron if you don’t have your own or you’re visiting offering reasonable rates. It’s a great way to see more of the Bay than the main street.
I hope that you will join me on the next installment of my Tour de Byron, as I discover more easy rides, putting pedals to the test in and around this beautiful town.
Sometimes,when travelling, the weather gods are not on your side! Driving from Clearwaterto Jasper, on the third leg of our road-trip we intended to stop and see Mt Robson, the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. However, we couldn’t soak in what is apparently an amazing view as we found ourselves surrounded by thick mist. All was not doom and gloom however for as we climbed higher, we drove out of the mist into the sun and found ourselves surrounded by the awesomeness of Jasper National Park. Nestled in its heart is the charming town of Jasper, where we settled into our own little cabin in the woods, a charming and comfortable lakeside cottage for two at Patricia Lake Bungalows.
Patricia Lake from the porch of our cottage. It was cold when we were there, so didn’t try the canoes. I probably wouldn’t have fallen in but you never know …
As we were staying for three nights, we had time to really explore some of this amazing World Heritage area. The management at Patricia Lake Bungalows couldn’t have been more helpful and gave us great advice about walks, attractions, the best supermarket, eateries and how to operate the hot tub. Nothing was too much trouble! There was even a special bottle of wine to help us celebrate a special anniversary.
A very nice drop! Thank you Patricia Lake Bungalows!
Pyramid Lake and Pyramid Mountain
On our first afternoon, we decided to explore Pyramid Lake. Patricia and Pyramid Lakes are just a few kilometres from Jasper township and are connected to each other and the town by hiking trails. In fact, Jasper has so many hiking trails that you have to prioritize. Even though we were staying next door, so to speak, we drove to Pyramid Lake to explore the lake via a hiking trail which took us along the shoreline, past the resort and across a small wooden footbridge to Pyramid Island. There we admired the wonderful views across the lake of Pyramid Mountainand its reflection.
It’s easy to see why it’s called Pyramid Mountain!The lake was so clear and still, perfect for reflections.
Back home at Patricia Lake, we enjoyed similar views but the snow capped mountains added a special magic I think.
Maligne Canyon and Maligne Lake
We woke to a cloudy day and decided that it was perfect for exploring. About an hour’s drive from Jasper lies Maligne Canyon and Maligne Lake. Although I had read that the upper Canyon could get very busy when tour buses arrive, I hadn’t appreciated what ‘busy’ meant in this context. We thought we were relatively early; arriving at the canyon around 11am. The carpark was reasonably empty and we smugly set off to explore the excellent self-guided interpretative loop trail that follows the upper reaches of the gorge. We found ourselves crossing the canyon several times, the bridges providing wonderful photo opportunities.
The water churns alongcarving out caves in the canyon wallscascading down waterfallsand disappearing into the forest!
By the time we reached the fourth bridge, an hour or so had passed and it was time to retrace our steps, for we wanted to check out Medicine and Maligne Lakes after lunch. We were astounded by the number of people we encountered walking down, as we climbed to the top. The tour buses had arrived … in droves. Despite the crowds, which at times resembled a herd of wildebeest scrabbling for a spot at the waterhole, this was a wonderful place to visit and explore. Next time, we would like to allow more time to explore the canyon further, as far as the fifth and sixth bridges perhaps.
Leaving Maligne Canyon, we drove past Medicine Lake to the beautiful Maligne Lake. Everything about this lake is wonderful. It is the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies. Ringed by snow-and-ice-capped mountains, the 22 km long lake stretches past serene Spirit Island right to the melt-water channels of Coronet Glacier.
We lunched at the Maligne Lake Day Lodge & View Restaurant which had an adequate menu and a fabulous view and then explored the foreshore of the lake, learning about some of the history of the area, while some of the locals tried to say hello.
I can see you!
The path winds past the historic boat shed where there are canoes for hire,while the changing colours of the lake invite you to linger … and contemplate.
As the afternoon drew to a close, we returned to Jasper where we still had time to wander around, looking for that special souvenir to bring home and enjoy a leisurely dinner in front of the fire, overlooking Patricia Lake. Bliss!
Spirit Island
Morning bought sunny weather, so we returned to Maligne Lake and took the Maligne Lake boat cruise to Spirit Island. This boat cruise was definitely one of the highlights of our Canadian holiday. Excellent commentary and amazing scenery made for an unforgettable experience.
The boats are not so big that they intrude on the landscape or impact the environment in a negative way
On the water, we were amazed by the changing colours of the water.
Is it blue, blue green, aqua, turquoise, jade ……?
But nothing prepared us for what awaited at Spirit Island.
Here it is impossible to take a bad photograph for it is so beautiful where ever you look! An amazing place!Even google liked one of my photos and decided to ‘play’.
Alas, our cruise was over all too soon and we headed back to Jasper. Reluctant to let go of the magic, we decided to have a late lunch at the Fairmont Jasper Lodge. There on the deck, overlooking the pool and Beauvert Lake, enjoying a delightful meal and exceptional service, we certainly felt we were living the good life.
All too soon, our time in Jasper was at an end. There was one disappointment. We travelled to Jasper in early June and the road to Mount Edith Cavellwas not yet open. Locals had rated this hike as good as the boat cruise if that’s possible, so this too, will also have to wait till … next time.
Whistler was the first stop on our road trip through the Canadian Rockies and proved to be one of the highlights of our trip. It had it all: mountains for as far as you could see, metres of snow, tranquil lakes hidden in woods so dark and deep, I thought I was in a Robert Frost poem and a charming, accessible, snow globe village. My daughter, Melissa and her husband Ben spent a year in Whistler, as many young Aussies do, and to this day it holds a special place in their hearts. I now appreciate why they found it so difficult to come home!
Getting There
On a cloudy, grey day, with our luggage in tow, we made our way from the Sylvia Hotel in the West Endto the airport where we picked up our car. Using the excellent bus and train system, it was surprisingly easy and cost only a few dollars. Having said that though, a taxi would have only cost us around 25 dollars. We chose the former because we had time and wanted to pretend we were young backpackers if only for a few hours.
Grey clouds threatened but blew away
The drive from the airport into the city and over the Lions Gate Bridge to the North Shore was not too difficult. Our car didn’t come with sat nav and we chose not to upgrade. Kenn was confident that he still had excellent map reading skills and sure enough we soon found ourselves zooming over the bridge and onto the Sea to Sky highway. We had scarcely travelled 30 kms and the weather started to clear. The highway skirts the coast with wonderful views over the ocean and then climbs firstly to Squamishand finally to Whistler. The drive was breathtaking, so much so that I forgot to take photos. I just wanted to look and look some more.
The Summit Hotel and Spa
We stayed at the Summit Hotel and Spa located on Main St close to the Marketplace and the Town Plaza, a great location as it turned out. Initially, I chose this property because I found an incredible special on booking.com and after checking with Melissa re location and facilities, booked. In fact it was so good, that when we went to check in at reception, the girls had never seen a booking so cheap! Was I a forger? A cheat? The back records had to checked to verify my booking.com reservation confirmation. A few anxious moments … and then smiles all round.
A very comfortable bed – a good night’s sleep was enjoyed by all.
We certainly couldn’t fault our apartment. It featured a separate bedroom, a living room complete with kitchenette and gas fireplace, a luxurious bathroom and a delightful balcony overlooking the pool and hot tub with views to Blackcomb mountain. A perfect home away from home for four nights! Leaving our unpacking for later, we spent a wonderful afternoon exploring the village and getting our bearings. Just around the corner from the Summit we discovered an Aussie pie shop (peakedpies.com) which had an amazing variety of gourmet pies at reasonable prices. Just the thing for a late lunch.
Lost Lake
The next day dawned cloudy, cool and overcast but rain was not predicted so we decided to walk the Lost Lake loop. This was on Melissa’s must do list. It was an easy 5 to 10 km walk. Initially we walked through woods, dark and deep until we reached the lake.
The path was very easy to follow. For bikers there were lots of side trails of varying difficulty. Something for everyone!
Crossing a wooden bridge over a bubbling stream,
Almost has a Japanese garden feel to it, don’t you think?
we came to a pontoon.
Such a calm day.
Here we had to stop . There’s just something about wooden walkways that invite one to explore…
It was all ours to enjoy
This would be a perfect spot for yoga, I thought. I could visualise myself attempting downward dog listening to the water lapping the deck, drifting into a zen like state. But my vision was shattered when Melissa told me that this is a favourite swimming spot for the nudist community. I couldn’t believe anyone would actually enjoy swimming here. I had dipped a toe into the water and even if I had a thermal wetsuit on, I wouldn’t dive in let alone clothed only in my birthday suit! Bits would freeze off I’m sure.
We resumed our walk and every turn of the track seemed to give us yet another vista of peacefulness. We returned by taking the track to the upper village along a delightful covered bridge.
Lost in the mist
What lurks in the bushes?
The symmetry of the roof makes for an interesting photo opportunity.
It was time to tick off another item on Melissa’s must do list. Eat a zog dog and poutine. Essential Canadian fare! I can’t report that we found them super delicious. A Zog dog is a saucy hot dog and poutine is basically hot chips with gravy and cheese curds. They were a bit salty and stodgy, perhaps best consumed on a cold winter’s day after a run down the mountain. Then, I imagine they would really hit the spot. We wandered back to the Summit where we enjoyed an hour or so in the hot tub and sauna before indulging in a great value for money dinner at the Spaghetti Factory.
We loved the food and the atmosphere of this eatery. However, I discovered that they only do a naked Caesar Salad – lettuce, croutons, dressing and Parmesan cheese. No chicken, no anchovies, no bacon, no egg! Probably better for the waistline though.
It was packed but it was no hardship to sip a cocktail or two while we waited for a table.
I was very happy after one or was it two of these?
The Peak to Peak Gondola
This has to be the best gondola ride on the planet. The sheer scale of the Peak to Peak Gondola is breathtaking. We scored a beautiful day and made the most of it. First of all, we rode the gondola up Whistler mountain.
As you can see, the gondola gives you unparalleled views all around.
Up you go, up some more and when you think you have reached the summit, you go up, up and up! Below, the village dwindles away.
So far away!
As the summit, we grabbed a bite to eat and then explored a little before climbing aboard the Peak to Peak gondola.
A hive of activity.
We found the Olympic Inunshuk and of course took a photo in front of the Olympic Rings.
I love how Kenn has captured the alpine colour palette in this photo
Going across to Blackcomb mountain on the gondola allows you unparalleled mountain and valley views. We were lucky enough to catch the glass bottom gondola as well. It’s a long way over as you can see in these photos.
Once we reached Blackcomb, we watched the skiers and snow boarders flying down the mountain. Skiing in late Spring! We could have caught the gondola back to Whistler mountain and then down to the village but decided to catch the Blackcomb chairliftdown the mountain instead. And we saw bears! Playing in the flowers! What a day!
There were a couple of bears but obviously they didn’t want to pose together for us.
Walking on top of the world.
The following morning was also wonderfully sunny, so we caught the Whistler gondola up the mountain again to walk the only Alpine track that was open. It took us to Little Whistler Peak. Although we have walked to the summit of Mt Kosciuszko in Australia, this was very different. There was so much snow and ice and we were so much higher. The air felt so clean, so good that you just wanted to drink it all in.
The walk follows a service road and climbs very steadily to the peak. As you round bends in the road and look behind you, wonderful vistas open up.
We couldn’t believe our eyes, so, so beautiful.
Soon, we found ourselves walking between walls of ice that seemed to get higher and higher as we climbed.
This is one wall that I would not be able to leap with a single bound!
And there were ice sculptures!
I thought that this looked like an elephant. Am I being too fanciful?
All too soon, we were at the end of the walk, feeling at one with the world.This was such a lovely thing to do. Descending on the gondola, we were captivated by the mountain bikers taking on the mountain. This was not an activity that I wanted to pursue but what an adrenaline rush for the riders!
In his element – Kenn loving life!
These were some of the highlights of our Whistler stay. Of course there was so much more: museums, cafes and restaurants, bike rides and of course hot tubbing our aches and pains away under the stars, just to list a few.
While Whistler comes into its glory in the winter, it’s a wonderful destination that offers so much all year round to visitors of all ages. We were sad to go.
Isn’t the Coolangatta/Tweed Heads golf course spectacular? Just walking around it, feet cushioned by emerald green turf, taking in the water views and watching the antics of the abundant bird life is enjoyable. However tackling its many challenges was and is a real golfing adventure! Last week, Annie and Pam and I took on the challenge of the river course at Coolangatta/Tweed Heads Golf Club. Although we were just playing a social match, thiswas my first experience playing on a championship course and I hoped… crossed my fingers and every other appendage … and … wished … to play well.
I had a few concerns as my game isn’t quite what I would have hoped it might be by this stage. When I embarked on my golfing journey, I was full of good intentions: I promised myself that I would practice my putting at home between weekly visits to the ‘Coffee Golf’clinic at Mullumbimby Golf Club ( I didn’t make it to double digits), pay a visit to the local driving range at Ballina (only visited the range to buy Christmas gifts) and find time to play a few extra games, perhaps at different courses. (I can count the extra games I played in an 18 month period, on one hand!) So predictably, my progress has been slow, painfully tortoise like! But I thought, nothing ventured, nothing gained! Miracles can happen on a golf course I assured myself and there was always lunch and good company to look forward to, if I was doomed to disappointment.
It was a perfect day for golf, warm and sunny as only the North Coast can be, with very little breeze. Soon we were out on the course. Annie and Pam were in Superman mode: their tee shots flying down the fairway like speeding bullets. Mine were more problematical but I persevered and hit a couple that were not too shabby. We discovered that the fairways were so smooth that Annie and Pam in particular were able to hit away with their fairway woods. I was a little more timid and stuck with my irons but all our balls ran and then ran some more. Always an agreeable outcome.
Annie hitting a great shot missing the water and the bunker
Even when I inevitably found the rough, to my surprise, it was relatively smooth and for once, I hit out easily. But as we approached the greens, we understood why Nicky, our golf pro, had made us practice targets with our nine irons and pitching wedges again and again and again. Every green was surrounded by water and sand! A lot of sand! Luckily, each of us only lost only one ball to the water and generally missed the sand. Yes, it was up, up and away for us.
I know what those bunkers are thinking: I’m going to get you!
The course is quite long and there is a fair distance between some holes, but the view you have of the river is worth the trek but I can understand why many choose to cart it.
The Tweed River
All too soon, our game was over and it was time for lunch and a well deserved cappuccino at the Golf Club. Alas our day had come to an end. The highway beckoned and before too long, we were home in Byron Bay. Tweed, watch out! In the words of Arnie, ‘We will be back!’
Lost Lagoon in Stanley ParkRock sculptures on English Bay
Do you ever secretly wonder if a place you are about to visit will live up to all the wonderful things you have been told about it? Perhaps wonder if the weather will slow you down or keep you indoors when you want to wander, explore or perhaps challenge yourself? Or perhaps worry that the hotels you’ve booked over the internet will turn out to be bedbug ridden dives instead of delightful gems worthy of a rave review on Trip Advisor? I don’t think that I’m a glass half empty sort of a person, but flying over the Pacific Ocean, on our way to Vancouver, some of these thoughts flitted across my mind.
And when you have had some reservations, how good is it when everything turns out to be so much better than you imagined! Turning on fabulous weather, known as bluebird days, for us, Vancouver turned out to be one of the loveliest, most accessible and fun cities I have visited: a place where the forest meets the sea surrounded by snow-capped mountains. I felt guilty for ever imagining that it could be any different.
We arrived early morning and made our way from the airport to our hotel, The Sutton on Burrard St, by taxi. Here we met our friends, Helen and Phil, who had arrived a day earlier. The hotel very obligingly checked us in at 9.00am (book in is usually 3.00pm) and after a shower, we were ready to explore our surroundings.We were all catching an Alaskan cruise the following day and after the cruise, planned to spend a few days in Vancouver before heading off on our separate adventures. All up, we spent five days, four nights in Vancouver.
Day One
Vancouver is a very easy city to walk around and to me at least, didn’t seem crowded at all and if you don’t feel like walking, the bus, rail and ferry system is excellent and very affordable. I was stunned to see so many cyclists safely navigating the city traffic, something we don’t see as much here in Australia. Initially, while Helen and Phil went cycling around the sea wall, Kenn and I walked to Canada Placeon the harbour where we would be boarding our cruise ship.
There were signposts on the deck to other parts of Canada. Couldn’t resist – I can’t be the only fan of ‘Anne of Green Gables’ !On our way to Stanley Park, along the sea wall, we found the marina.
We then made our way along the sea wall to Stanley Park. Words cannot do this park justice. Because I was feeling a little jet lagged, we only explored the city side of Lost Lagoon, leaving the park for a more thorough exploration when we returned from the cruise. The combination of sun, sea, trees and flowers was intoxicating, much more effective than a double shot latte for lifting one’s spirits after the long flight from Australia.
Exiting the park at English Bay, we munched on the best hot dogs for lunch, while watching the tankers round the point.
Bit different from Byron Bay.
We were amazed by the number of locals who were out sunbaking, (though they need to visit Byron to experience a ‘real’ beach), rollerblading and cycling along the promenade. They seemed to exude a real zest for life and the outdoors, which was infectious. I felt healthier just looking at them.
Then it was back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before dinner in Gastown, a short walk from our hotel. Phil led the way to pre-dinner drinks at the Black Frog, a very atmospheric watering hole, specialising in local beers and wines while Helen discovered the culinary delights of the Flying Pig for a memorable first Canadian dinner. From our upstairs window, we had a great view of the famous steam-driven clock and the fairy-lighted streets.
Day Two
What a difference a good night’s sleep makes! Next morning we were up early, ready to explore a little in search of that special coffee and a light breakfast. They take their coffeeseriously here and we were spoilt for choice. In the end, we chose a cafe that specialised in Italian coffee and had a cute outdoor dining spot.Then a quick peak at the shops before we made our way to Canada Place ready for our Alaskan adventure.
Day Three
A week passed all too quickly on the cruise and we found ourselves disembarking on a cloudy Friday morning. We caught a taxi to our next hotel, The Sylvia on English Bay. I had chosen this hotel for its position on the Bay, the price and its proximity to Stanley Park. It was really very comfortable, considering that it was rated as a 3 star hotel. We had only a partial view of the sea but our room was large and comfortable and the views from the restaurant and hotel bar more than compensated.
Our room was on the sixth floor. Hotel has many original features including the lifts.
Luggage stashed, we made our way to Granville Island, a gourmet’s paradise. We took a baby ferry ( these ferries look like they should be in someone’s bathtub) and were there in no time. There was so much produce on display in the food halls that it was difficult to make a choice. Eventually purchasing some artisan bread, cheese and salumi as well as home made soup and new season berries, we found ourselves a comfortable seat on the wharf and indulged in lunch while buskers entertained us. There were lots of handmade arts and crafts as well for those looking for something a little different to take home.
We spent the afternoon at the Vancouver Aquarium, located in Stanley Park. If you love animals and the sea, this is a must see. Every gallery was fascinating but I especially loved watching the children discover the clown fish in the tropical gallery and learning to touch the starfish in their purpose-built environment.
Nemo is so cute!
I laughed along with everyone else at the antics of the beautiful Beluga whales, gleefully splashing unsuspecting members of the audience. And what’s not to love about super frisky sea otters?
Another plus for The Sylvia was that it is close to the restaurant precinct along Denman St.When in a new city I prefer to dine out, enjoying the people, savouring the scents and the lights of the city at night. We eventually chose a Turkish restaurant for dinner. I should have asked how big were the portions as they were enormous and Kenn and I could have shared. For those who like to eat in, I noticed that many of the restaurants did take-away which would be cheaper as you wouldn’t have to pay the tip.
Day Four
Another fine day greeted us. After a very hearty breakfast in the lovely dining room at the Sylvia, we headed off to Denman Stto hire some bikes. A ride along the sea wall that borders Stanley Park beckoned us. This is a very easy, flat ride along a designated bike path. Kenn and I were soon zooming on our way. There was only one problem. When I found myself nearly falling off my bike because a delightful bunch of Japanese girls were giggling their way around, ahead of me, I knew I wasn’t the slowest bike rider on earth anymore. Indeed, I had to master overtaking or topple off!
I saw a lot of Kenn’s back on this trip!
Then it was time to really explore Stanley Park. We had lunch at the Tea House Restaurant, not realising that it was an upmarket establishment. They very kindly let us in despite being dressed in exercise clothes. We then walked deeper into the Park. We found our way to Beaver Lake which was covered in waterlilies about to burst into bloom.
Beaver Lake in late May
It’s always interesting, the people you meet on your expeditions. As we were leaving Beaver Lake, I stopped to look at some berries which looked very appealing but which I thought might be poisonous. A young man stopped and told me that they were Salmon Berries and edible! Lucky me! But its a small world. It turns out that he is an iron man, training to compete on the Sunshine Coast in July.
A tart taste but nice.
The rose garden, as one might expect, was full of beautiful roses, some of which were scented.
Day Five: The Grouse Grind
Today was the day when my fitness would be tested. Kenn and I had agreed to join Helen and Phil on a jaunt to Grouse Mountain. They wanted to walk up the mountain and catch the gondola down, a walk known as the ‘Grouse Grind’ and advertised as being ‘Nature’s Stairmaster’. We used public transport, a seabus and a bus, to get to the beginning of the walk at the base of the mountain. This was indeed a tough climb, 853 metres (2,800) up to the top of the mountain. But while the trail is not long, (it’s only 2.9 kilometres long) you feel as if you are climbing a steep staircase as the average gradient is about 30 degrees. But it is beautiful walking up through the forest.
Steps and more steps and more steps
It took time and a lot of pit stops … a lot of pit stops. They have a competition in Vancouver to see who can post the fastest time for the grind, I think that I was in a competition with a few others, to see who could post the slowest time. But a couple of hours later, I was thankfully relaxing in a delightful cafe on the summit, sipping a hot chocolate and perusing a menu full of healthy and hearty food options. After all, I needed to refuel!
But there’s more to do than the grind on Grouse Mountain. There’s lots of wildlife to see: Grizzly bears and birds of prey as well as a lumberjack show. For those who ride the gondola up, there are lots of hiking trails to explore as well. They didn’t really appeal to me for some reason.
The two grizzlies were having a lovely play together.
And then it was time to go down via the gondola and enjoy the amazing view over Vancouver and the ocean.
Certainly a tram with a view
Making our way home, picking up some Epsom salts on the way,( a long soak in the bath was definitely in order), we discovered some beautiful old streets in the West End with some delightful architecture. I would have liked to explore these more but you can never fit everything in.
As it was, the weather had been so ‘bluebird’, I hadn’t made it to an art gallery or a museum or a theatre, something I like to do when in a foreign city. But in a way, I think that the beautiful natural environment of Vancouver is what makes this city so special and I’m glad she shared it with us.
After a big pruning session, rediscovered this fern going gangbusters at the back of the garden.
My garden had morphed into a jungle. It’s been a long, hot and sometimes very wet summer in Byron Bay and everything in the garden has followed the example of Jack’s beanstalk: growing…growing…and growing some more. It was a situation made worse by high humidity. As you may have gathered from previous posts, Kenn and I could best be described as enthusiastic rather than eruditegardeners. Unfortunately, our enthusiasm wilted like spinach in a stirfry as the humidity climbed, ensuring that efforts in the garden were confined to the occasional lawn mowing effort to provide a line of sight for spotting visiting snakes and assorted reptiles.
But Autumn has arrived. The nights are cooler and the humidity has dropped. Kenn, armed with his pruning shears has attacked the overgrown shrubbery with a zeal reminiscent of the Texas chainsaw massacre. When he reduced the pink hibiscus by two thirds, we saw that the red frangipani cutting that we had been given two years ago was flowering and that the baby stag horn fern was a baby no longer.
What a gorgeous shade of red! Worth waiting for. Kenn has a new nickname: the fern whisperer!
The veggie garden was full of weeds that were fence high and a large blue tongued lizard had decided to call this patch, home. Kenn took pity on me, weeding and relocating ‘Bluey’. ( I just don’t seem to have a rapport with anything scaly.) Soon, herbs, snow peas, an espaliered lime tree and silverbeet were able to see the sun, always a good thing for plants! We could see that the passionfruit vine had fruit and lots of flowers.
Just a little riper please.I’ve since added some bok choy and some Greek basil.
As we mowed, trimmed and weeded, we noticed little spots of colour in the garden. To my surprise, the white Jacaranda was spot flowering.
The flowers leave a white carpet on the front lawn
Bird of Paradise made a statement in the front garden, the Tahitian hibiscus finally had a flower and the pink mandevilla trailing over the side garden arch revealed that it was indeed, a flowering plant.
Such a cool flower.Every flower is a bonus!It’s only been two years since planting!
But tragedy also hit. We had a lovely standard daisy bush that didn’t survive the heat and our absences over the summer. A new azalea, chosen from the great range at our local nursery, Eden at Byron, now takes its place.
Here’s hoping that I don’t kill this one too!
So the garden is somewhat tamed … for a while. Have you, like us been busy in the garden?
Until recently, we were a cat family. There were occasional deviations, most notably ‘Cutlets’, the abandoned lamb Kenn raised to be an interim lawn mower when we lived in Wagga Wagga, but otherwise only cats with personality have shared their lives and antics with us. Secretly though, I think that Kenn has always had a soft spot for puppies demonstrated by his determination to teach our kittens ‘doggie’ tricks. For example, Muffin, a white Persian kitten, learnt to play fetch and would stay and sit on command, often on Kenn’s desk as he started and completed 3000 word essays the night before they were due. Nym, a lovely gentle Himalayan, learnt to beg for treats and snuggle close while watching TV, while our latest kitten, Callie, races puppylike down the hallway to the front door when she hears his car pull up outside. Who needs a puppy when they can have a kitten, I thought. But I now realise that these tricks are pale imitations of the ‘joys’ of ‘real’ puppies.
Ninja
Hannibal
Moet
My first close encounter of the puppy kind came with Moet.Friends, Helen and Phil, (longtime dog gurus) welcomed an adorable, golden retriever puppy into their home. Moet was lovely: not too yappy, not too boisterous, definitely not bitey and best of all, sensitive to the needs of her human friends. She was, and is, content to sit and wait quietly while we humans chat over a coffee or tea, sip a champagne while nibbling some cheese or indulge in a late breakfast. My puppy prejudices were fading away….
Someone has to make the place look good!
Then Melissa and Ben returned from their honeymoon and blithely let us know that we were going to grandparents – to a red and white border collie, named Ninja. What fun, I thought. I can play with a cute bundle of fluff until Ninja is suitably tired and cross and then hand her back to her parents. Isn’t that what grandparents do? Have all the fun and none of the fuss?
I’m so lovely when I’m asleep
Alas, no-one told me anything about toilet training and puppies before I volunteered to puppy sit. Ninja was so loving that she greeted us and anyone who visited with a liquid gift. Consequently, I found myself hosing down the back patio – a lot. And I squishily learnt that the ability to hold one’s breath for at least a minute was essential while mastering the ins and outs of plastic poo bags. Luckily, knots mastered at Girl Guides, so long ago, actually did work.
And while I knew that puppies and dogs love bones, I was unaware that many puppies share with Imelda Marcos, a fetish for shoes. Unbeknownst to us, her minders, Ninja collected and cherished seven pairs of shoes from our next door neighbour, Bob. Ninja didn’t understand what all the fuss was about as she left one shoe of each pair for its human owner. What could be fairer than that?
But it’s easy to ignore these puppy peccadilloes because most of the time she is so much fun and like all babies takes so much enjoyment in the simple things in life like a walk on the beach. As we walk along the bush path to Tallows Beach, it’s easy to see who’s in charge on these excursions.
Wait there! There’s something very interesting in the bushes that needs my attention.
Exiting the path, we all have to cross the road. This has been a small problem, as true to her breeding, Ninja wants to round up every car she meets (they’re just big noisy sheep) but she is slowly learning to look to the right and look to the left before crossing the road.
There has to be a car somewhere!
At last we are on the beach and Ninja is off the lead and running. Faster than a speeding bullet, she finds her friends and the fun begins.
I’ll chase you and then you can chase me.
She is learning the finer points of surfing and loves to jump the waves.
Come on in, the water’s warm.
Then there’s all the interesting stuff to sniff and eat. A bit of seaweed, a shell, a bit of crusty coral, a rotting crab…
There’s pippis to eat if you dig deep enough.
But all too soon, it’s time to go home to Mum, where all tuckered out she sneaks a rest in the bedroom.
Shh! Don’t wake Mum. I’m so comfy here! I’m pretending to be a fox …
Watching Ninja and all the other dogs enjoying the sun, sea and sand has been a great way to spend an hour or two. All fun and no fuss. My type of puppy chore. She is also eager to follow her father’s exploits on the soccer field, casting a discerning eye over the action.
Run, Ben! Faster! You’ll never score a goal at this rate.
Festive celebrations take on another dimension when a puppy is involved. Ninja shared a wonderful Christmas treat with Moet, who has been key in teaching Ninja doggie etiquette.
Just stay there Ninji, this is for grownups. Oh look … it’s got my name on him! Hehe …
But Ninja hasn’t sailed through puppy hood unscathed. Far too soon, she had to visit the Vet for a procedure on her leg and she was a very sad puppy for a couple of weeks.
I know pink is my colour but really, a cone! A collar is bad enough, but a Conehead?
My third close encounter of the puppy kind came not long after Ninja entered our lives. In Darwin, my other daughter, Lyndsay, and her partner, Reece, became lucky parents of a Siberian Husky puppy who they named Hannibal. We haven’t met him face to face yet, but modern technology has allowed us to watch his antics from afar.
He too is adorable … when asleep.
No one disturb me! And no. they are not my eyes. They’re just my eyebrows. Cute, hey?
And like Ninja and Moet, he loves a run on the beach and a dip in the ocean. Lyndsay and Reece, assure me that they keep a careful watch for watery reptiles.
Ah, the sun and the sea, what bliss.
Though Hannibal loves the sea, the pool is also a lovely place to cool down in the tropical heat.
This is so good.
And he is always pleased to see you.
Yes, I am pleased to meet you. You did bring treats?
And that about sums it up. Puppies are always so glad to see you, be with you, share with you that puppy love that just creeps up on you. I’m now very content to be part of a puppy extended family, but I’m not sending Callie to the animal shelter anytime soon!
The weather is perfect for swimming at the moment. Sunny, humid and hot. The crystal blue water of the bay beckons swimmers into its cool embrace. There, in waist deep water, I float and splash about. Occasionally, very occasionally I catch a wave and ride it to shore. Heat disappears as my body chills down. It’s lovely, really lovely.
Relaxing under the umbrella, soaking up the smell of salt, sunscreen and hot chips, I watch as some intrepid souls swim across the bay. Out where you can’t stand up. Out where things, with fins, swim. I can’t make myself do it. Not when I can swim without being nibbled, in what has to be one of the most scenic public swimming pools in Australia, the Byron Bay Memorial Pool.
Looking across the 50 meter pool to the ocean
The pool is located at the top of Johnson St, adjacent to Main Beach and overlooks the bay. Like me, there are many who come to the pool to swim laps. There are always three or four lanes set out for this purpose.
There are designated lanes to suit all swimming abilities
Usually you’ll have to share a lane with others. When this happens, I don my flippers, content to complete my session with a freestyle workout. But sometimes you can be lucky and have a lane all to yourself.
Doesn’t this look inviting?
Then, I can attempt a backstroke lap or two without inflicting a concussion on some poor, unsuspecting soul or if you swim breaststroke in a manner and at a speed resembling a galapagos tortoise, as I do, then you won’t hold others up. You can take as long as you like swimming a lap or resting between laps or indeed in the middle of a lap. No one will know!
As well as a 50 meter pool there is a babies pool and a beginner’s pool. Consequently, the pool is very popular with families of younger children. I notice lots of young mums, relaxing with a coffee from Fishheads, watching on as their children play or have swimming lessons.
Entry to the pool is on the left hand side of the cafe.
The beginner’s pool has a wonderful view of the BayLittle ones love splashing about in the shade.
After your swim, you might like to relax for a while.
Have you left that sun lounger for me?
Perhaps meet friends at the Top Pub for lunch. But wait, you tell me, you’re wearing eau de chlorine! Nothing to worry about. The change rooms are more than adequate for a quick transformation and for an extra 50 cents you can even have a hot shower! Or perhaps like me, you might just like to double dip: into the pool and then the ocean. It’s right there, waiting!
Our local pool is a great resource. Greg and his team do a wonderful job maintaining it for all of us. This season, entry is $4.00 for adults, less for children and pensioners.
My Tuesday was not behaving itself! I had intended to have of a lovely morning catching up with my fellow golf enthusiasts for a coaching session with Nicky Rickon, a leisurely coffee and perhaps, a few holes of golf at Mullumbimby Golf Club. But sadly, it was not to be. I found myself crawling along Broken Head Road. This was not good. I was going to be very, very late. But my golf clubs were nestled between the odd towel and beach chair in the boot and my feet were wearing socks and sneakers for the first time in months, ready to traverse beckoning fairways, so I detoured. A few holes at Byron would surely satisfy my golfing itch.
Although it was a very warm morning, there was a breeze so it was with some enthusiasm that I paid my money and made my way to the back nine as directed. I hadn’t played for a couple of months and as expected it took me one or two more shots than usual to complete the my first hole. But to compensate for a less than celebratory fairway performance, I did sink a long putt! I hit off the second and missed the water. All good. Then disaster. The Ladies Comp caught up to me. They suggested, nicely, that I hightail it over to the 14th, hit down to the clubhouse and play a few holes on the front nine so that I didn’t get in their way. There was only one problem. I got a trifle lost and ended up on the 13th. Where was the 14th? Obviously, my map reading skills need a little fine tuning. Feeling decidedly hot and bothered, I decided to tee off. Then I heard the sound. The sound of an approaching golf cart. I looked up. The lady golfers had me in their sights. There was nothing for it but to pick up my ball and drag my buggy and myself back to the clubhouse.
I felt that I had already walked nine holes but wasn’t ready to give up just yet. “The front nine might be more challenging but is more scenic,” I’d been reliably informed. As I dragged myself down and up, across and back, I got hotter and hotter. For once, my ball didn’t seek the trees like a ballistic missile. I was stuck in the middle of the fairway. Repeatedly. Melting. In the tropical oasis that is Byron, I felt as if I was trekking across the Sahara … without a camel! Three holes later, I called it a day. I didn’t want the R.I.P sign at the side of the Golf Club driveway to commemorate me.
Lying on the couch under a fan with an ice pack on my neck, Kenn took pity on me. “How about I take you and Annie out for coffee and maybe lunch?” My day suddenly brightened. Taking advantage of our new National Parks parking sticker, we decided that lunch on the newly completed deck at the Lighthouse Cafewould be perfect.
Can you ever get tired of such a view?
The cafe offers simple pleasures. Coffee, milkshakes, rolls, quiches, gourmet pies and sausage rolls to mention a few and the best ice cream in Byron Bay.
We tried the vegetarian quiche, the gourmet pie and the chicken and pesto roll. Needless to say, not a crumb was left on our plates. And the coffee hit the spot!In the Pink ice cream and gelati. So hard to resist.
Lunch finished, we lingered a little. Rested a little.
Just dreaming
For newcomers to the bay, information about Lighthouse Tours and the National Park can be found in the Lighthouse Keepers House directly behind the cafe.
Imagine being a lighthouse keeper here! There is limited paid parking available at the Lighthouse if you do not have a National Parks permit.
Refreshed, Annie and I meandered down the track, past the most easterly point of Australia to Wategoes where Kenn kindly picked us up.
After the morning’s adventures, a strictly downhill stroll to Wategoes was all I could muster.
Lunch at the Lighthouse Cafe was a lovely and unexpected way to end the morning.
New Zealand isn’t known as the Land of the Long White Cloudfor nothing. We woke on Day 2, to a misty, cloudy day, for our walk around Endeavour Inlet to Mahana Lodge, our destination for the night. This was a relatively easy walk of around 15 kms as our chosen accommodation for Day 1, Cnoc na Lear, was situated on the northern side of the inlet.
Cnoc na Lear to Furneaux Lodge
The mist subtly coloured the landscape, giving it an otherworldly dimension as we walked the 2 or 3 kms to Furneaux Lodgewhich is located in a wonderful setting at the head of the inlet.
View from Cnoc na Lear across the Inlet to Furneaux Lodge jetty
The weather also gave us the opportunity to test some of the gear we had purchased for just such an occasion. I have to say that my Kathmandu merino t-shirt and rain jacket passed the test. I was super comfortable and dry all day. I will admit though, it’s not a look you will see on a Paris catwalk.
Dressed for the rain in my Kathmandu gear at Furneaux Lodge
Furneaux Lodge to Miners Camp
This part of the walk passes through ferny forest and traverses the head of the Inlet.
If you have time to spare, there’s also a waterfall or two to visit near Furneaux Lodge
And across a suspension bridge over a tumbling creek and on through some open grassland to Miner’s camp.
Feels like a real adventure when you cross a suspension bridge or two!
It was in this open grassland that I made my first mistake. As this part of the walk was relatively flat, I hadn’t carried my walking poles, a decision I was to regret. The grass was thick, high and very, very wet. Within minutes, my tights and socks were soaked and my toes were wallowing around in my boots. Not a peaceful, easy feeling! If only I could have parted the grass with my poles, like Moses parting the Red Sea. But Punga Cove was still hours away, so undeterred, we squished and squelched our way on to Miners Camp.
Miners Camp to Punga Cove and Mahana Lodge
We leave the grassland and climb up and down along the southern arm of Endeavour Inlet.
We were now on the southern side of the Inlet and this was the most strenuous part of the Day 2 walk. We seemed to be trudging uphill through forest … a lot. There were tree ferns everywhere sprouting forth.
And little coves with private jetties.
It wasn’t only a sea of green. There were flowering shrubs. One which caught my eye was this one. Have no idea what it was but it had a lovely scent.
Reminds me of an Australian tea tree
We were rewarded with lovely vistas over secluded coves, perfect for a lunchtime break as we made our way towards Punga Cove and our destination for the night, Mahana Lodge.
Adrift on a sea of aquamarine
It was mid afternoon by the time we reached Punga Cove.We passed the DOC campsite at Camp Bay and then passed the Punga Cove Resort. We were tired and for a moment, I wished I had booked our second night here. But about another kilometer further on, Mahana Lodge awaited us.
Here, hosts John and Ann Martinmade us feel at home. As we were getting acquainted and selecting our dinner menu for the evening, we discovered that John and Ann had lived for a number of years in Kenn’s home town of Condobolin in central NSW. John had worked at the Agricultural Research Station undertaking research into rabbit control in the early 1970s. They remembered the town and its people very fondly. It’s truly a small world.
Our ensuite room in the lodge was spacious and luxurious. After a long, hot shower and wrapped in a super soft complimentary dressing gown, I enjoyed a leisurely afternoon tea. Ann’s wonderful home baking did not last very long I can assure you.
The sitting room in the Lodge. That sofa was very comfortable, a great place for a cuppa and a good book.Storm clouds gather over the homestead, as seen from the sitting room in the Lodge
Dinner in the candlelit conservatory at the homestead was very special and memorable. We enjoyed artisan bread baked by Ann and mussels in white wine as our entree. We chose salmon from the sound, smoked by John to his recipe, over wild rice as our main course which was accompanied by the freshest salad. All ingredients had been picked that day by John from his extensive garden. Food when it’s local and super fresh always tastes amazing. We finished with profiteroles smothered in chocolate and a home made raspberry sauce. Not my usual camping fare I can tell you!
We would have liked to spend longer at Mahana Lodge: explore the cove on the free kayaks, complete some shorter walks around the inlet or watch the glow worms flicker in the creek behind the Lodge.
But the Queen Charlotte beckoned. Day 3, according to Ann, would be challenging yet deeply rewarding!
Sunset over the cove
While many like us were on a mission to walk the whole track, we met others who only had the time to explore one section of the track before resuming their travels. The walk around Endeavour Inletwas definitely the easiest part of the Queen Charlotte. Walkers would definitely have time to explore as well as walk. So if the thought of day hikes of 20 plus kms is a little daunting, you can still immerse yourself in the New Zealand wilderness with this part of the walk.
Byron Dreamer 