Whistler Wonderland

panorama

Whistler was the first stop on our road trip through the Canadian Rockies and proved to be one of the highlights of our trip. It had it all: mountains for as far as you could see, metres of snow, tranquil lakes hidden in woods so dark and deep, I thought I was in a Robert Frost poem and a charming, accessible, snow globe village. My daughter, Melissa and her husband Ben spent a year in Whistler, as many young Aussies do, and to this day it holds a special place in their hearts. I now appreciate why they found it so difficult to come home!

Getting There

On a cloudy, grey day, with our luggage in tow, we made our way  from the Sylvia Hotel in the West End to the airport where we picked up our car. Using the excellent bus and train system, it was surprisingly easy and cost only a few dollars. Having said that though, a taxi would have only cost us around 25 dollars. We chose the former because we had time and wanted to pretend we were young backpackers if only for a few hours.

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Grey clouds threatened but blew away

The drive from the airport into the city and over the Lions Gate Bridge to the North Shore was not too difficult. Our car didn’t come with sat nav and  we chose not to upgrade. Kenn was confident that he still had excellent map reading skills and sure enough we soon found ourselves zooming over the bridge and onto the Sea to Sky highway. We had scarcely travelled 30 kms and the weather started to clear.  The highway skirts the coast with wonderful views over the ocean and then climbs firstly to Squamish and finally to Whistler. The drive was breathtaking, so much so that I forgot to take photos. I just wanted to look and look some more.

The Summit Hotel and Spa

We stayed at the Summit Hotel and Spa located on Main St close to the Marketplace and the Town Plaza, a great location as it turned out. Initially, I chose this property  because  I found an incredible special on booking.com and after checking with Melissa re location and facilities, booked.  In fact it was so good, that when we went to check in at reception, the girls  had never seen a booking so cheap!  Was I a forger? A cheat?  The back records had to checked to verify my booking.com  reservation confirmation.   A few anxious moments  … and then smiles all round.

The summit welcomes us
A very comfortable bed – a good night’s sleep was enjoyed by all.

We certainly couldn’t fault our apartment. It featured a separate bedroom, a living room complete with kitchenette and gas fireplace, a luxurious bathroom and a delightful balcony overlooking the pool and hot tub with views to Blackcomb mountain. A perfect home away from home for four nights!  Leaving our unpacking for later, we spent a wonderful afternoon exploring the village and getting our bearings. Just around the corner from the Summit we discovered  an Aussie pie shop  (peakedpies.com) which had an amazing variety of gourmet pies at reasonable prices.  Just the thing for a late lunch.

Lost Lake

The next day dawned cloudy, cool and overcast but rain was not predicted so we decided to walk the Lost Lake loop. This was on Melissa’s must do list. It was an easy 5 to 10 km walk. Initially we walked through woods, dark and deep until we reached the lake.

lost lake hiker
The path was very easy to follow. For bikers there were lots of side trails of varying difficulty. Something for everyone!

Crossing a wooden bridge over a bubbling stream,

lost lake bridge
Almost has a Japanese garden feel to it, don’t you think?

we came to a pontoon.

lost lake 2
Such a calm day.

Here we had to stop . There’s just something about wooden walkways that invite one to explore…

lost lake pontoon
It was all ours to enjoy

This would be a perfect spot for yoga, I thought. I could visualise myself attempting downward dog listening to the water lapping the deck,  drifting into a zen like state. But my vision was shattered when  Melissa told me that this is a favourite swimming spot for the nudist community. I couldn’t  believe anyone would actually enjoy swimming here. I had dipped a toe into the water and even if I had a thermal wetsuit on, I wouldn’t dive in let alone clothed only in my birthday suit! Bits would freeze off I’m sure.

We resumed our walk and every turn of the track seemed to give us yet another vista of peacefulness.  We returned by taking the track to the upper village along a delightful covered bridge.

It was time to tick off another item on Melissa’s must do list. Eat a zog dog and poutine. Essential Canadian fare!  I can’t report that we found them super delicious. A Zog dog is a saucy hot dog and poutine is basically hot chips with gravy and cheese curds. They were a bit salty and stodgy, perhaps best consumed on a cold winter’s day after a run down the mountain. Then, I imagine they would really hit the spot. We wandered back to the Summit where we enjoyed an hour or so in the hot tub and sauna before indulging in a great value for money dinner at the Spaghetti Factory.

spaghetti factory
We loved the food and the atmosphere of this eatery. However, I discovered that they only do a naked Caesar Salad – lettuce, croutons, dressing and Parmesan cheese. No chicken, no anchovies,  no bacon, no egg! Probably better for the waistline though.

It was packed but it was no hardship to sip a cocktail or two while we waited for a table.

cocktail
I was very happy after one or was it two of these?

 The Peak to Peak Gondola

This has to be the best gondola ride on the planet. The sheer scale of the Peak to Peak Gondola is breathtaking. We scored a beautiful day and made the most of it.  First of all, we rode the gondola up Whistler mountain.

gondala-001
As you can see, the gondola gives you unparalleled views all around.

Up you go, up some more and when you think  you have reached the summit, you go up, up and up! Below, the village dwindles away.

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So far away!

As the summit,  we grabbed a bite to eat and then explored a little before climbing aboard the Peak to Peak gondola.

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A hive of activity. 

We found the Olympic Inunshuk and of course took a photo in front of the Olympic Rings.

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 I love how Kenn has captured the alpine colour palette in this photo

Going across to Blackcomb mountain on the gondola allows you unparalleled mountain and valley views. We were lucky enough to catch the glass bottom gondola as well. It’s a long way over as you can see in these photos.

Once we reached  Blackcomb, we watched the skiers and snow boarders flying down the mountain. Skiing in late Spring! We could have caught the gondola back to Whistler mountain and then down to the village  but decided to catch the  Blackcomb chairlift down the mountain instead. And we saw bears! Playing in the flowers! What a day!

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There were a couple of bears  but  obviously they didn’t want to pose together for us.

Walking on top of the world.

The following morning was also wonderfully sunny, so we caught the Whistler gondola up the mountain again to walk the only Alpine track that was open. It took us to Little Whistler Peak. Although we have walked to the summit of Mt Kosciuszko in Australia, this was very different. There was so much snow and ice and we were so much higher. The air felt so clean,  so good that you just wanted to drink it all in.

The walk follows a service road and climbs very steadily to the peak. As you round bends in the road and look behind you, wonderful vistas open up.

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We couldn’t believe our eyes, so, so beautiful.

Soon, we found ourselves walking between walls of ice that seemed to get higher and higher as we climbed.

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This is one wall that I would not be able to leap with a single bound!

 

And there were ice sculptures!

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I thought that this looked like an elephant. Am I being too fanciful?

All too soon, we were at the end of the walk, feeling at one with the world.This was such a lovely thing to do. Descending on the gondola, we were captivated by the mountain bikers taking on the mountain. This was not an activity that I wanted to pursue but what an adrenaline rush for the riders!

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In his element – Kenn loving life!

 These were some of the highlights of our Whistler stay. Of course there was so much more: museums, cafes and restaurants, bike rides and of course hot tubbing our aches and pains away under the stars, just to list a few.

 While Whistler comes into its glory in the winter, it’s a wonderful destination that offers so much all year round to visitors of all ages. We were sad to go.

 

 

 

 

 

A Golf Adventure along the Tweed River

Isn’t the Coolangatta/Tweed Heads golf course spectacular? Just walking around it, feet cushioned by emerald green turf, taking in the water views and watching the antics of the abundant bird life is enjoyable. However tackling its many challenges was and is a real golfing adventure!  Last week, Annie and Pam and I took on the challenge of the river course at Coolangatta/Tweed Heads Golf Club.  Although we were just playing a social match, this was my first experience  playing on a championship course and I hoped… crossed my fingers and every other appendage … and  … wished … to play well.

 I had a few concerns as my game isn’t quite what I would have hoped it might be by this stage. When I embarked on my golfing journey, I was full of good  intentions:  I promised myself that I would practice my putting at home between weekly visits to the ‘Coffee Golf’ clinic at Mullumbimby Golf Club ( I didn’t make it to double digits),  pay a visit to the local driving range at Ballina (only visited the range to buy Christmas gifts) and  find time to play a few extra games, perhaps at different courses. (I can count the extra games I played in an 18 month period, on one hand!) So predictably, my progress has been slow, painfully tortoise like!  But I thought, nothing ventured, nothing gained! Miracles can happen on a golf course I assured myself and there was always lunch and good company to look forward to, if I was doomed to disappointment.

It was a perfect day for golf, warm and sunny as only the North Coast can be, with very little breeze.  Soon we were out on the course. Annie and Pam were in Superman mode: their tee shots flying down the fairway like speeding bullets. Mine were more problematical but I persevered and hit a couple that were not too shabby. We discovered that the fairways were so smooth that Annie and Pam in particular were able to hit away with their fairway woods. I was a little more timid and stuck with my irons but all our balls ran and then ran some more. Always an agreeable outcome.

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Annie hitting a great shot  missing the water and the bunker

 

 Even when I inevitably found the rough, to my surprise, it  was relatively smooth and for once, I hit out easily.  But as we approached the greens, we understood why Nicky, our golf pro, had made us  practice targets with our nine irons and pitching wedges again and again and again.  Every green was surrounded by water and sand!  A lot of sand!  Luckily, each  of us only lost only one ball to the water and generally missed the sand. Yes, it was up, up and away for us.

course hazards
I know what those bunkers are thinking: I’m going to get you!

 

The course is quite long and there is a fair distance between some holes, but the view you have of the river is worth the trek but I can understand why many choose to cart it.

 

walking between holes admiring the river
The Tweed River

 

All too soon, our game was over and it was time for lunch and a well deserved cappuccino at the Golf Club. Alas our day had come to an end. The highway beckoned and before too long, we were home in Byron Bay. Tweed, watch out! In the words of Arnie, ‘We will be back!’

 

Lunching at the Lighthouse

iconic byron lighthouse
Byron Lighthouse from the new deck of the Cafe

My Tuesday was not behaving itself!  I had intended to have of a lovely morning catching up with my fellow golf enthusiasts for a coaching session with Nicky Rickon, a leisurely coffee and perhaps,  a few holes of golf at Mullumbimby Golf Club. But sadly, it was not to be.  I found myself crawling along Broken Head Road. This was not good. I was going to be very, very late. But my golf clubs were nestled between the odd towel and beach chair in the boot and my feet were wearing socks and sneakers for the first time in months, ready to traverse beckoning fairways, so I detoured.  A few holes at Byron would surely satisfy my golfing itch.

Although it was a very warm morning, there was a breeze so it was with some enthusiasm that I paid my money and made my way to the back nine as directed. I hadn’t played for a couple of months and as expected it took me one or two more shots than usual to complete the my first hole. But to compensate for a less than celebratory fairway performance, I did sink a long putt!  I hit off the second and missed the water. All good. Then disaster. The Ladies Comp  caught up to me. They suggested, nicely, that I hightail it over to the 14th, hit down to the clubhouse and play a few holes on the front nine so that I didn’t get in their way. There was only one problem.  I got a trifle lost and ended up on the 13th. Where was the 14th?  Obviously, my map reading skills need a little fine tuning. Feeling decidedly hot and bothered, I decided to tee off. Then I heard the sound. The sound of an approaching golf cart. I looked up. The lady golfers had me in their sights. There was nothing for it but to pick up my ball and drag my buggy and myself back to the clubhouse.

I felt that I had already walked nine holes but wasn’t ready to give up just yet. “The front nine might be more challenging but is more scenic,” I’d been reliably informed. As I dragged myself down and up, across and back, I  got hotter and hotter. For once, my ball didn’t seek the trees like a ballistic missile. I was stuck in the middle of the fairway. Repeatedly.  Melting. In the tropical oasis that is Byron, I felt as if I was trekking across the Sahara … without a camel! Three holes later, I called it a day. I didn’t want the R.I.P sign at the side of the Golf Club driveway to commemorate me.

Lying on the couch under a fan with an ice pack on my neck, Kenn took pity on me. “How about I take you and Annie out for coffee and maybe lunch?”  My day suddenly brightened. Taking advantage of our new National Parks parking sticker, we decided that lunch on the newly completed deck at the Lighthouse Cafe would be perfect.

deck overlooks the bay
Can you ever get tired of such a view?

view of the deck at lighthouse cafe

 The cafe offers simple pleasures. Coffee, milkshakes, rolls, quiches, gourmet pies and sausage rolls to mention a few and the best ice cream in Byron Bay.

menu at lighthouse cafe
We tried the vegetarian quiche, the gourmet pie and the chicken and pesto roll. Needless to say, not a crumb was left on our plates.  And the coffee hit the spot!
gelati at lighthouse cafe
In the Pink ice cream and gelati. So hard to resist.

Lunch finished, we lingered a little. Rested a little.

the bay
Just dreaming

For newcomers to the bay, information about Lighthouse Tours and the National Park can be found in the Lighthouse Keepers House directly behind the cafe.

lighthouse keeper's cottage
Imagine being a lighthouse keeper here! There is limited paid parking available at the Lighthouse if you do not have a National Parks permit.

Refreshed, Annie and I meandered down the track, past the most easterly point of Australia to Wategoes where Kenn kindly picked us up.

overlooking wategoes
After the morning’s adventures, a strictly downhill stroll to Wategoes was all I could muster.

Lunch at the Lighthouse Cafe was a  lovely and unexpected way to end the morning.

 

‘Glamping’ in Evans Head

I am a relative  newcomer to ‘Glamping’.  Until recently, my camping  experiences involved a tent, an airbed that hopefully would stay inflated and a sleeping bag.  There were  minimal extras: a little two burner stove, a gas lantern and  a camping table. A lot of baked beans and tinned spaghetti was consumed. I have no champagne memories! But on a recent camping trip to Evans Head, my eyes were opened to a whole new world of camping realities, the world of ‘glamping’

Evans Head is only about 45 mins away from Byron Bay. The group we joined for a long weekend were seasoned glampers. We had waterfront sites at the Silver Sands Caravan Park and soon, remarkable hand crafted camper trailers were being unloaded, tents and tarps erected and kayaks and professional looking fishing gear stowed away.

campground by the river
Waterfront sites on the river at Evans

There was so much to explore and experience. First of all, we had to explore the track along the river, to the breakwater and the beach and test out the surf. The water was clear and very warm for this time of year.

passing the river beach
passing the river beach
surfing beach
surfing beach

Soon, it was time for Happy Hour and a gourmet  barbecue as we watched the tide run out on the river and the pelicans playing. Next morning, I was up early enough to catch the sunrise.  I didn’t have to forego my beauty sleep as daylight saving hadn’t  ended and the sun was kindly rising at 7 am.   The sun peeked through the clouds and then burst over the ocean in amazing colours!

Sunrise over the breakwater
Sunrise over the breakwater
beach sunrise
beach sunrise

Walking back to camp, I noticed that the riverside cafe was open. No need to forego creature comforts while glamping. I thought,  as I appreciatively sipped a large takeaway cappuccino.

Later that day we tested out the 4WD on the sand. You can drive north along the beach for quite a few kms and you don’t need a permit to do so. It’s just you, the sea, the sand and the seagulls and pelicans. Oh and the occasional horse and rider.

Testing out the Prado
Testing out the Prado

We also explored the beautiful Chinaman’s Beach  which is a little to the south of our campsite on the other side of the river. The beach is  perfectly unspoiled and is fringed with amazing aubergine coloured rocks, tangerine, brown and cream striped cliffs and amazing rock pools. I love climbing over and through rock pools. It’s like there a new world just waiting to be discovered by you.  What a wonderful way to spend a couple of hours!

Chinaman's Beach
Chinaman’s Beach

Back at camp, the troops had been busy. A visit to the fishing co-op and Tiger Prawns were on the menu. My baked bean days were over!.

And so the weekend continued. The Kayakers ventured upstream, circumnavigated a small island and let the current bring them back to camp. The fishermen had some success in the surf gutters. Blessed with perfect sunny weather and balmy nights, we swam, ate, walked, ate, fished, ate and drank a …a little. What’s a bottle or two of Pinot Grigio between friends? And I took  the time to catch up on some reading and day dream about the next glamping adventure.

Hello world!

Hi! I’m Margaret. Join me on my journey as I embrace life after ‘work’ in a beautiful part of the world.  I hope to explore new and familiar places, learn new skills, challenge myself physically and immerse myself in all things culinary and cultural.  Umm …  a to do list!  Or will it become a to don’t list?  I’m looking forward to finding out.