Despite traffic gridlock, long supermarket queues, tourists occupying all the best spots at my favourite cafes and an inability to snag a rock star park at the beach, I have to admit that thissummertime, the livin’ has been easy in Byron Bay and we have enjoyed that ‘peaceful, easy beach holiday feeling.’
Looking back, 2016 was a big year for us: travel to distant destinations both abroad and here in Australia, the arrival of our first grandson, beautiful Hudson, ‘ Huddie’ James and our daughter Lyndsay’s picture perfect wedding at Cradle Mountain in Tasmania among the many highlights. By mid November we were ready to relax and get into the holiday groove. The Christmas tree went up and channeling that ‘peaceful, easy feeling’, I shopped early. I found I had time to wander, consider and unearth! My former self; a demented banshee rushing around in a blind panic trying to find the perfect present at the last minute and failing miserably, was banished … hopefully forever.
So with gifts nestled beneath the tree, we threw ourselves into the revelries of the silly season: parties and drinks with friends and of course, Carols at the ‘Byron at Byron.’ one of the premier resorts in Byron Bay. Nestled in coastal rainforest, the staff welcomed us with a glass or two of champagne on the deck (helps to lubricate the vocal cords) and offered delicious bites both traditional and local. Who could resist a delicious mince tart or a Bangalow Pork roll or a nibble of this or a nibble of that? Certainly not us! Our group was soon in a very festive mood.
And so we sang, mostly in tune, as the dusk closed in. Luckily the choir was loud enough to make us all sound ‘joyful and triumphant’.
Our singing mingled with the ‘songs’ of the black cockatoos who, according to the Bundjalung people, herald in the New Year!
The peaceful, easy feeling just grew and grew. Melissa and Ben hosted Christmas Dinner on the deck of their home in beachside Byron. Everything was just perfect. And I didn’t have to stress about a thing.
All I had to do was cook a turkey and make a couple of salads to contribute to the festive fare. So easy. So delightful. So restful.
Even Ninja got into the holiday spirit as we exchanged gifts.
What’s Santa bringing me ?
All of Ben’s family had traveled from Adelaide to share Huddie’s first Christmas. Who would have thought that a roomful of adults could be spellbound as a 7 month old baby opened his first Christmas presents! And there were a lot of presents to open.
Eventually, it was time to return home. Christian, Kelly and little Genevieve were arriving the next day for a week. The cousins would meet for the first time!
And Genevieve traveled to Coomera to play with her great grandfather and mother and enjoy a swim with Nemo and Dad in their pool. It’s a special moment to see four generations all together these days.
Come on Dad, can’t this fish swim any faster?
And I got to play sandcastles with Genevieve and Huddie at Lake Ainsworth, located next to the surf club at Lennox Headand take them both for a swim. Watching their expressions as little waves washed over their feet and their toes dug into cool soft sand was everything I thought it would be. That beach holiday feeling had arrived.
Even though the days were hot, they were perfect for long evening walks along the beach.
misty magic
Even one of the locals joined us entranced by the sunset.
And when the clouds rolled in, the sky seemed to say, ‘look at me, look at me
Mirror heaven
Despite the traffic and the arrival of bluebottles on a couple of occasions, we lolled around in the surf and when the waves permitted, caught a few in to shore. It’s reassuring to know that you haven’t lost the knack.
That rush when the wave takes you …so good!
We have enjoyed leisurely breakfasts and evening barbecues on the patio while the cat has played with his holiday treat, a cardboard castle.
Will I fit?
And there’s something about watching the cricket and tennis in the heat of the day. that is deeply relaxing, I find.
And so our summer continues: early morning games of golf, lighthouse walks, swimming and kayaking in the lake and in the bay and a new arrival to welcome and a special birthday celebration in March to look forward to. Yep, that ‘peaceful, easy beach holiday feeling’ is definitely here. Hope your summer has been as enjoyable.
Sometimes,when travelling, the weather gods are not on your side! Driving from Clearwaterto Jasper, on the third leg of our road-trip we intended to stop and see Mt Robson, the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. However, we couldn’t soak in what is apparently an amazing view as we found ourselves surrounded by thick mist. All was not doom and gloom however for as we climbed higher, we drove out of the mist into the sun and found ourselves surrounded by the awesomeness of Jasper National Park. Nestled in its heart is the charming town of Jasper, where we settled into our own little cabin in the woods, a charming and comfortable lakeside cottage for two at Patricia Lake Bungalows.
Patricia Lake from the porch of our cottage. It was cold when we were there, so didn’t try the canoes. I probably wouldn’t have fallen in but you never know …
As we were staying for three nights, we had time to really explore some of this amazing World Heritage area. The management at Patricia Lake Bungalows couldn’t have been more helpful and gave us great advice about walks, attractions, the best supermarket, eateries and how to operate the hot tub. Nothing was too much trouble! There was even a special bottle of wine to help us celebrate a special anniversary.
A very nice drop! Thank you Patricia Lake Bungalows!
Pyramid Lake and Pyramid Mountain
On our first afternoon, we decided to explore Pyramid Lake. Patricia and Pyramid Lakes are just a few kilometres from Jasper township and are connected to each other and the town by hiking trails. In fact, Jasper has so many hiking trails that you have to prioritize. Even though we were staying next door, so to speak, we drove to Pyramid Lake to explore the lake via a hiking trail which took us along the shoreline, past the resort and across a small wooden footbridge to Pyramid Island. There we admired the wonderful views across the lake of Pyramid Mountainand its reflection.
It’s easy to see why it’s called Pyramid Mountain!The lake was so clear and still, perfect for reflections.
Back home at Patricia Lake, we enjoyed similar views but the snow capped mountains added a special magic I think.
Maligne Canyon and Maligne Lake
We woke to a cloudy day and decided that it was perfect for exploring. About an hour’s drive from Jasper lies Maligne Canyon and Maligne Lake. Although I had read that the upper Canyon could get very busy when tour buses arrive, I hadn’t appreciated what ‘busy’ meant in this context. We thought we were relatively early; arriving at the canyon around 11am. The carpark was reasonably empty and we smugly set off to explore the excellent self-guided interpretative loop trail that follows the upper reaches of the gorge. We found ourselves crossing the canyon several times, the bridges providing wonderful photo opportunities.
The water churns alongcarving out caves in the canyon wallscascading down waterfallsand disappearing into the forest!
By the time we reached the fourth bridge, an hour or so had passed and it was time to retrace our steps, for we wanted to check out Medicine and Maligne Lakes after lunch. We were astounded by the number of people we encountered walking down, as we climbed to the top. The tour buses had arrived … in droves. Despite the crowds, which at times resembled a herd of wildebeest scrabbling for a spot at the waterhole, this was a wonderful place to visit and explore. Next time, we would like to allow more time to explore the canyon further, as far as the fifth and sixth bridges perhaps.
Leaving Maligne Canyon, we drove past Medicine Lake to the beautiful Maligne Lake. Everything about this lake is wonderful. It is the largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies. Ringed by snow-and-ice-capped mountains, the 22 km long lake stretches past serene Spirit Island right to the melt-water channels of Coronet Glacier.
We lunched at the Maligne Lake Day Lodge & View Restaurant which had an adequate menu and a fabulous view and then explored the foreshore of the lake, learning about some of the history of the area, while some of the locals tried to say hello.
I can see you!
The path winds past the historic boat shed where there are canoes for hire,while the changing colours of the lake invite you to linger … and contemplate.
As the afternoon drew to a close, we returned to Jasper where we still had time to wander around, looking for that special souvenir to bring home and enjoy a leisurely dinner in front of the fire, overlooking Patricia Lake. Bliss!
Spirit Island
Morning bought sunny weather, so we returned to Maligne Lake and took the Maligne Lake boat cruise to Spirit Island. This boat cruise was definitely one of the highlights of our Canadian holiday. Excellent commentary and amazing scenery made for an unforgettable experience.
The boats are not so big that they intrude on the landscape or impact the environment in a negative way
On the water, we were amazed by the changing colours of the water.
Is it blue, blue green, aqua, turquoise, jade ……?
But nothing prepared us for what awaited at Spirit Island.
Here it is impossible to take a bad photograph for it is so beautiful where ever you look! An amazing place!Even google liked one of my photos and decided to ‘play’.
Alas, our cruise was over all too soon and we headed back to Jasper. Reluctant to let go of the magic, we decided to have a late lunch at the Fairmont Jasper Lodge. There on the deck, overlooking the pool and Beauvert Lake, enjoying a delightful meal and exceptional service, we certainly felt we were living the good life.
All too soon, our time in Jasper was at an end. There was one disappointment. We travelled to Jasper in early June and the road to Mount Edith Cavellwas not yet open. Locals had rated this hike as good as the boat cruise if that’s possible, so this too, will also have to wait till … next time.
The Chace Range in the Flinders Ranges, as viewed from Rawnsley Park
Our recent road trip to the Flinders Ranges in South Australia could best be described as serendipitous. Quite by accident, we found ourselves in the right place at the right time to witness one of nature’s miracles, a once in ten years sort of miracle!
Following extensive and unusual winter and spring rainfall, the dry, red countryside that we expected to find was carpeted with an explosion of wildflowers and greenery. And this carpet was not just here and there, but stretched for hundreds of kilometres, from Nyngan
Drifts of wildflowers near the Bogan River in Nyngan
to Broken Hill
blue puff balls as far as the eye could see
and from the South Australian border
As we drove to each new town in South Australia, there were drifts of gazanias in every colour imaginable!
all the way to the green oasis of Wilpena Poundin the Flinders Ranges.
Open grassland in the middle of Wilpena Pound.
We enjoyed the journey to the Flinders via NSW. Although much of the region was affected by floods with many roads and highways closed, with the exception of a little bit of water over the road on the outskirts of Warren, the Prado didn’t get its feet wet, let alone test out the snorkle. Each town had something to remember it by. In Nynganwe spotted this heritage building.
Nyngan has been a boom and bust sort of place.
And in Cobar where copper is mined, a lookout on the edge of town lets you look down into the big pit while the museum and visitor centre is worth a visit. The museum offers insights into the indigenous, mining and pastoral history of the region and the everyday life of the early settlers. In those days, a woman’s work was never done.
I’d need a good hand cream after this and my back hurts just looking at this equipment!
Broken Hill did not disappoint either. We enjoyed exploring the city streets where there were lots of interesting things to see such as ‘The Big Picture’ and the heritage listed town of Silverton where the Mad Max films were made. The sculpture park on Sunset Hill was striking and the sunset beautiful. As well, we found a delightful cafe which had excellent coffee and a fresh menu, always a bonus when you’re travelling.
Sun nearly gone!
But the star attraction of our trip were the Flinders Ranges. We stayed at Rawnsley Park Stationwww.rawnsleypark.com.auwhich has a variety of accommodation options to suit most budgets. We chose to stay in one of their self-contained holiday units which we found very comfortable.
We stocked up on supplies in Broken Hill and Hawker. After breakfast, we packed lunch to take with us on our explorations , returning for a leisurely dinner each evening.
There are some delightful walks at Rawnsley Park Station. One that we completed was the Ferntree Falls Walk. We were fortunate again because the falls don’t always flow, only after rain! And it had rained a couple of days before we arrived!
.The following morning we set off to explore. First stop was Wilpena Pound.
Wilpena Pound from the air! An experience not to be missed.
There is an excellent information centre at the Pound and soon we found ourselves walking along a silver gum lined creek
These gum trees looked as if someone had spray painted them silver. And they were so tall!
across bridges
The creek twists and turns
to the Hills Homestead, the early settlers of the Pound
A lonely life
on our way to the Wangara lookout where the view across the pound made the climb to the lookout worthwhile.
It just goes on and on.
Returning to the visitor centre, we had our lunch on the shaded deck while we worked out our itinerary for an afternoon drive. We decided to explore the Bunyeroo and Brachinagorges.
Bunyeroo Gorge is one of the main gorges which runs through the Heysen Range towards Lake Torrens. The drive down the Razorback Ridge to Bunyeroo Valley gives spectacular views South towards the Pound Range.
Kenn has always wanted to drive this road. Finally got his wish and a couple of watery creek crossings as well.
We then drove north to join the Brachina Gorge road which meanders its way through sharp sawtooth ridges of resistant quartzite. This spectacular gorge was once used as a pass through which bullock teams pulled their loads and is now a favourite picnic and camping area.
It was awesome to see where we had driven from the air
Early next morning, we decided to do one of the longer walks at Wilpena Pound: the 18.8 km Bridle Gap Walk which takes you across the pound and back.
The walk captured in bronze
This walk forms part of the Heysen Trail, one of Australia’s Great Walks but it was the wildlife that we saw which made this walk very special. We spotted wallabies and some very friendly emus. For a moment or two, I thought they were going to be too friendly!
The emus were on the lookout for something to chase: a wallaby jumped along and obliged
I also had fun testing out how waterproof my hiking boots were as we crossed little cteeks and lagoons on the walk. Needless to say, my feet in my Scarpa boots stayed dry. These boots aremade for walking!
That afternoon, we explored other gems including the Cazneaux Tree. Cazneaux was a famous photographer. One of his most famous images was taken on 1937, of a solitary river red gum tree, near Wilpena Pound which he titled “The Spirit of Endurance”. Like many others, I took a photo of the same tree which still stands today.
Hopefully, it will still be standing in 100 years time.
There were Aboriginal rock sites to visit and admire,
just beautiful
lookouts to visit which had vistas over the ABC range and towards the north and a thrilling flightover the area to enjoy. We considered booking this before we left home, but weren’t sure which flight would suit us best. The friendly staff at Rawnsley and Wilpena Pound were very helpful and in the end we decided on a half hour flight from Rawnsley over the Pound and the Gorges. It was not difficult to book a time which suited us and our pilot made the experience one to savour. Thank you, Alex!
All too soon, we were bidding farewell to the Flinders Ranges. We returned to Byron Bay via Mildura where we stopped for two nights. This is a lovely place on the Murray River in the middle of wine growing country. Couldn’t resist trying the local drop and bought a couple of bottles home to share with friends. While in Mildura, we went to Sea Lake.
As you can see, not much to see at Sea Lake except your reflection! We watched amazed as hordes of Chinese girls, dressed in designer clothing walked into the lake and posed while their boyfriends took their photograph in the murky salt lake. Apparently, when there are some clouds, it looks as if you are walking on the clouds!
A couple of family reunions, an extra 6000 kms on the clock and all too soon we were driving into Byron Bay. Home until … the next adventure.
Waterfalls and raging rivers dominated Stage 2 of our road trip as we drove from Whistler to Jasper along a ‘road less traveled’ via Pemberton, Lillooet, Kamloops and Clearwater. This was a very rewarding experience as we were not surrounded by hundreds of fellow tourists, allowing us time to drink in the silence, to find the special magic, that something unique and wonderful that nourishes a connection with the wilderness.
Whistler to Kamloops
Nairn Falls
We left Whistler on an overcast but dry day. We had lots of time to stop and explore along the way as we were only driving to Kamloops and it’s light well into the evening in early June. Just outside Pemberton, we stopped at Nairn Falls on the Green River to stretch our legs and check out our first Canadian waterfall. The walk to the waterfall, along the Green river was lovely.
The path climbed a little but was quite easy. It is a 3 km return walk.Occasionally, I just had to find a seat and enjoy the view and yes the leaves were really this lovely shade of green as the sun was peeking through!The falls at the end of the walk were quite impressive. They are 60 metres high and you can view both the upper and lower falls.
Joffre Lakes
All too soon, we were in the car. Passing through pretty Pemberton, our next stop was Joffre Lakes. We had learned about them from a couple from Adelaide, as we lay soaking in the hot tub at the Summit hotel in Whistler. Alas, Kenn and I didn’t have the four plus hours needed to complete the 10 km round hike, so we just walked along the path to the lower lake.
Imagine what the other lakes are like if this is the least scenic!
Then came the best part of the drive to Kamloops. The road to Lillooet winds through snow capped mountains that seem to hover all around you. The sun kept making an appearance, breaking through banks of clouds, making glaciers gleam and sparkle and frosting the tops of the deep green trees which lined the valleys. Then this alpine perfection changed. As you drive further inland towards Lillooet, the road enters a rain shadow and the countryside becomes sparse and dry creating an interesting contrast with the coast.
Lillooet
This is a little hamlet on the Fraser river and was our stop for lunch at the Rugged Bean Cafe where our meal and coffee were delicious.
I think that British Columbia is the hanging basket capital of the world.
Earlier than we had anticipated, we found ourselves in Kamloops. This was only an overnight stop so we quickly booked into our motel, Accent Inns, Kamloops. (https://www.accentinns.com) We were pleasantly surprised at how comfortable and well equipped our room was, considering this is a 3 star rated motel. Guided by a lovely receptionist at the Inn, we explored the riverside park in the heart of the city where the Fraser and Thomson Rivers meet.
There was a river beach but it was quite dangerous to swim there according to the warning signsIndigenous carvings enlivened the park
Kamloops to Jasper
Clearwater and the Wells Grey Provincial Park
Next morning, after a simple breakfast at Accent Inns, we found ourselves bound for Clearwater, gateway for the Wells Grey Provincial Park. No-one seemed to know about this park back in Australia but I was intrigued by some comments on a couple of blog posts I had read while in the research phase for our trip. Waterfalls, waterfalls and more waterfalls, the blog posts enthused. Worth a stop I thought!
Clearwater was only about an hours drive from Kamloops and our first port of call was to the park information centre. With a limited time frame, they were able to advise us which of the many waterfalls we should visit and which walks were feasible. So map in hand and my navigator’s cap on, we drove into the park. Our first waterfall was the Spahats Creek Falls.
Falling into a steep gorge, this waterfall impressedWe were reminded a little of the Blue Mountains in NSW
Next came the Dawson Fallsor ‘Mini Niagara’ according to the locals. This too, was quite impressive I thought.
The path takes you along the river to the top of the falls.
But we saved the best for last, the lovely Helmcken Falls on the Myrtle River. Firstly, we walked for about an hour to the top of the falls along the Rim Trail. This was a great hike as you follow a rampaging river hurtling along to the falls. The sound is amazing!
You wouldn’t want to slip!
Reaching the top of the falls, you find yourself surrounded by mist and spray.
It’s a long way down!
Now you see it, now you don’t
Retracing our steps along the Rim Trail, we encountered a young couple coming towards us exclaiming excitedly, ” Did you see the bear?” We hadn’t, but soon after heard some ominous growls emanating from deeper in the woods.
‘There’s a bear in there … ‘sang Kenn to torment me!
Thankfully however, we didn’t have a close encounter (I love bears … from a distance) and I can assure you that while I didn’t set a new land speed record, I did make it back to the car very, very quickly.
Soon, we were on our way to the viewpoint for a panoramic view of the falls. the waterfall was really beautiful and I loved the way the Canadians have made the viewpoint so accessible for everybody.
So beautiful and we could see where we had hiked – notice the spray near the top of the falls? That’s where the Rim Trail leads to.
Finally, our day trip into the Wells Grey Provincial Park ended with a visit to an early settler’s now abandoned homestead. One could only wonder how they coped with the isolation and the cold in those early years.
Such a simple life!
Finally, it was time to retrace our steps to Clearwater and find the Hummingbird BnB, our home for the night. We were thrilled to see some deer and a couple of bears crossing the road on our way. One of the benefits of staying in a BnB is that you get to experience a place like a local. Some of our most memorable meals in Canada came from a recommendation from a BnB host. Doris, our hostess in Clearwater, recommended the Hop “N” Hog Tap & Smokehouse. And it was wonderful. Sipping signature beers and working our way through a gigantic plate of amazing ribs, we wished that we could stay a little longer here and perhaps take a white water rafting trip. Maybe next time.
Next morning, while Doris served up a lovely breakfast, we saw hummingbirds for the first time in the wild. So tiny and so fast! Then we were on our way to Jasper. Doris had recommended stopping at Mount Robson Provincial Parkon the way, but when we got there, it was so foggy and overcast that we drove on past. I will have to look at the highest point in the Canadian Rockies another time. This part of the drive to Jasper was spectacular. I suspect that I looked a little like one of those clowns that you see at a country show: mouth always open, head moving constantly from side to side!
A road less traveled and that made all the difference
Whistler was the first stop on our road trip through the Canadian Rockies and proved to be one of the highlights of our trip. It had it all: mountains for as far as you could see, metres of snow, tranquil lakes hidden in woods so dark and deep, I thought I was in a Robert Frost poem and a charming, accessible, snow globe village. My daughter, Melissa and her husband Ben spent a year in Whistler, as many young Aussies do, and to this day it holds a special place in their hearts. I now appreciate why they found it so difficult to come home!
Getting There
On a cloudy, grey day, with our luggage in tow, we made our way from the Sylvia Hotel in the West Endto the airport where we picked up our car. Using the excellent bus and train system, it was surprisingly easy and cost only a few dollars. Having said that though, a taxi would have only cost us around 25 dollars. We chose the former because we had time and wanted to pretend we were young backpackers if only for a few hours.
Grey clouds threatened but blew away
The drive from the airport into the city and over the Lions Gate Bridge to the North Shore was not too difficult. Our car didn’t come with sat nav and we chose not to upgrade. Kenn was confident that he still had excellent map reading skills and sure enough we soon found ourselves zooming over the bridge and onto the Sea to Sky highway. We had scarcely travelled 30 kms and the weather started to clear. The highway skirts the coast with wonderful views over the ocean and then climbs firstly to Squamishand finally to Whistler. The drive was breathtaking, so much so that I forgot to take photos. I just wanted to look and look some more.
The Summit Hotel and Spa
We stayed at the Summit Hotel and Spa located on Main St close to the Marketplace and the Town Plaza, a great location as it turned out. Initially, I chose this property because I found an incredible special on booking.com and after checking with Melissa re location and facilities, booked. In fact it was so good, that when we went to check in at reception, the girls had never seen a booking so cheap! Was I a forger? A cheat? The back records had to checked to verify my booking.com reservation confirmation. A few anxious moments … and then smiles all round.
A very comfortable bed – a good night’s sleep was enjoyed by all.
We certainly couldn’t fault our apartment. It featured a separate bedroom, a living room complete with kitchenette and gas fireplace, a luxurious bathroom and a delightful balcony overlooking the pool and hot tub with views to Blackcomb mountain. A perfect home away from home for four nights! Leaving our unpacking for later, we spent a wonderful afternoon exploring the village and getting our bearings. Just around the corner from the Summit we discovered an Aussie pie shop (peakedpies.com) which had an amazing variety of gourmet pies at reasonable prices. Just the thing for a late lunch.
Lost Lake
The next day dawned cloudy, cool and overcast but rain was not predicted so we decided to walk the Lost Lake loop. This was on Melissa’s must do list. It was an easy 5 to 10 km walk. Initially we walked through woods, dark and deep until we reached the lake.
The path was very easy to follow. For bikers there were lots of side trails of varying difficulty. Something for everyone!
Crossing a wooden bridge over a bubbling stream,
Almost has a Japanese garden feel to it, don’t you think?
we came to a pontoon.
Such a calm day.
Here we had to stop . There’s just something about wooden walkways that invite one to explore…
It was all ours to enjoy
This would be a perfect spot for yoga, I thought. I could visualise myself attempting downward dog listening to the water lapping the deck, drifting into a zen like state. But my vision was shattered when Melissa told me that this is a favourite swimming spot for the nudist community. I couldn’t believe anyone would actually enjoy swimming here. I had dipped a toe into the water and even if I had a thermal wetsuit on, I wouldn’t dive in let alone clothed only in my birthday suit! Bits would freeze off I’m sure.
We resumed our walk and every turn of the track seemed to give us yet another vista of peacefulness. We returned by taking the track to the upper village along a delightful covered bridge.
Lost in the mist
What lurks in the bushes?
The symmetry of the roof makes for an interesting photo opportunity.
It was time to tick off another item on Melissa’s must do list. Eat a zog dog and poutine. Essential Canadian fare! I can’t report that we found them super delicious. A Zog dog is a saucy hot dog and poutine is basically hot chips with gravy and cheese curds. They were a bit salty and stodgy, perhaps best consumed on a cold winter’s day after a run down the mountain. Then, I imagine they would really hit the spot. We wandered back to the Summit where we enjoyed an hour or so in the hot tub and sauna before indulging in a great value for money dinner at the Spaghetti Factory.
We loved the food and the atmosphere of this eatery. However, I discovered that they only do a naked Caesar Salad – lettuce, croutons, dressing and Parmesan cheese. No chicken, no anchovies, no bacon, no egg! Probably better for the waistline though.
It was packed but it was no hardship to sip a cocktail or two while we waited for a table.
I was very happy after one or was it two of these?
The Peak to Peak Gondola
This has to be the best gondola ride on the planet. The sheer scale of the Peak to Peak Gondola is breathtaking. We scored a beautiful day and made the most of it. First of all, we rode the gondola up Whistler mountain.
As you can see, the gondola gives you unparalleled views all around.
Up you go, up some more and when you think you have reached the summit, you go up, up and up! Below, the village dwindles away.
So far away!
As the summit, we grabbed a bite to eat and then explored a little before climbing aboard the Peak to Peak gondola.
A hive of activity.
We found the Olympic Inunshuk and of course took a photo in front of the Olympic Rings.
I love how Kenn has captured the alpine colour palette in this photo
Going across to Blackcomb mountain on the gondola allows you unparalleled mountain and valley views. We were lucky enough to catch the glass bottom gondola as well. It’s a long way over as you can see in these photos.
Once we reached Blackcomb, we watched the skiers and snow boarders flying down the mountain. Skiing in late Spring! We could have caught the gondola back to Whistler mountain and then down to the village but decided to catch the Blackcomb chairliftdown the mountain instead. And we saw bears! Playing in the flowers! What a day!
There were a couple of bears but obviously they didn’t want to pose together for us.
Walking on top of the world.
The following morning was also wonderfully sunny, so we caught the Whistler gondola up the mountain again to walk the only Alpine track that was open. It took us to Little Whistler Peak. Although we have walked to the summit of Mt Kosciuszko in Australia, this was very different. There was so much snow and ice and we were so much higher. The air felt so clean, so good that you just wanted to drink it all in.
The walk follows a service road and climbs very steadily to the peak. As you round bends in the road and look behind you, wonderful vistas open up.
We couldn’t believe our eyes, so, so beautiful.
Soon, we found ourselves walking between walls of ice that seemed to get higher and higher as we climbed.
This is one wall that I would not be able to leap with a single bound!
And there were ice sculptures!
I thought that this looked like an elephant. Am I being too fanciful?
All too soon, we were at the end of the walk, feeling at one with the world.This was such a lovely thing to do. Descending on the gondola, we were captivated by the mountain bikers taking on the mountain. This was not an activity that I wanted to pursue but what an adrenaline rush for the riders!
In his element – Kenn loving life!
These were some of the highlights of our Whistler stay. Of course there was so much more: museums, cafes and restaurants, bike rides and of course hot tubbing our aches and pains away under the stars, just to list a few.
While Whistler comes into its glory in the winter, it’s a wonderful destination that offers so much all year round to visitors of all ages. We were sad to go.
Isn’t the Coolangatta/Tweed Heads golf course spectacular? Just walking around it, feet cushioned by emerald green turf, taking in the water views and watching the antics of the abundant bird life is enjoyable. However tackling its many challenges was and is a real golfing adventure! Last week, Annie and Pam and I took on the challenge of the river course at Coolangatta/Tweed Heads Golf Club. Although we were just playing a social match, thiswas my first experience playing on a championship course and I hoped… crossed my fingers and every other appendage … and … wished … to play well.
I had a few concerns as my game isn’t quite what I would have hoped it might be by this stage. When I embarked on my golfing journey, I was full of good intentions: I promised myself that I would practice my putting at home between weekly visits to the ‘Coffee Golf’clinic at Mullumbimby Golf Club ( I didn’t make it to double digits), pay a visit to the local driving range at Ballina (only visited the range to buy Christmas gifts) and find time to play a few extra games, perhaps at different courses. (I can count the extra games I played in an 18 month period, on one hand!) So predictably, my progress has been slow, painfully tortoise like! But I thought, nothing ventured, nothing gained! Miracles can happen on a golf course I assured myself and there was always lunch and good company to look forward to, if I was doomed to disappointment.
It was a perfect day for golf, warm and sunny as only the North Coast can be, with very little breeze. Soon we were out on the course. Annie and Pam were in Superman mode: their tee shots flying down the fairway like speeding bullets. Mine were more problematical but I persevered and hit a couple that were not too shabby. We discovered that the fairways were so smooth that Annie and Pam in particular were able to hit away with their fairway woods. I was a little more timid and stuck with my irons but all our balls ran and then ran some more. Always an agreeable outcome.
Annie hitting a great shot missing the water and the bunker
Even when I inevitably found the rough, to my surprise, it was relatively smooth and for once, I hit out easily. But as we approached the greens, we understood why Nicky, our golf pro, had made us practice targets with our nine irons and pitching wedges again and again and again. Every green was surrounded by water and sand! A lot of sand! Luckily, each of us only lost only one ball to the water and generally missed the sand. Yes, it was up, up and away for us.
I know what those bunkers are thinking: I’m going to get you!
The course is quite long and there is a fair distance between some holes, but the view you have of the river is worth the trek but I can understand why many choose to cart it.
The Tweed River
All too soon, our game was over and it was time for lunch and a well deserved cappuccino at the Golf Club. Alas our day had come to an end. The highway beckoned and before too long, we were home in Byron Bay. Tweed, watch out! In the words of Arnie, ‘We will be back!’
Lost Lagoon in Stanley ParkRock sculptures on English Bay
Do you ever secretly wonder if a place you are about to visit will live up to all the wonderful things you have been told about it? Perhaps wonder if the weather will slow you down or keep you indoors when you want to wander, explore or perhaps challenge yourself? Or perhaps worry that the hotels you’ve booked over the internet will turn out to be bedbug ridden dives instead of delightful gems worthy of a rave review on Trip Advisor? I don’t think that I’m a glass half empty sort of a person, but flying over the Pacific Ocean, on our way to Vancouver, some of these thoughts flitted across my mind.
And when you have had some reservations, how good is it when everything turns out to be so much better than you imagined! Turning on fabulous weather, known as bluebird days, for us, Vancouver turned out to be one of the loveliest, most accessible and fun cities I have visited: a place where the forest meets the sea surrounded by snow-capped mountains. I felt guilty for ever imagining that it could be any different.
We arrived early morning and made our way from the airport to our hotel, The Sutton on Burrard St, by taxi. Here we met our friends, Helen and Phil, who had arrived a day earlier. The hotel very obligingly checked us in at 9.00am (book in is usually 3.00pm) and after a shower, we were ready to explore our surroundings.We were all catching an Alaskan cruise the following day and after the cruise, planned to spend a few days in Vancouver before heading off on our separate adventures. All up, we spent five days, four nights in Vancouver.
Day One
Vancouver is a very easy city to walk around and to me at least, didn’t seem crowded at all and if you don’t feel like walking, the bus, rail and ferry system is excellent and very affordable. I was stunned to see so many cyclists safely navigating the city traffic, something we don’t see as much here in Australia. Initially, while Helen and Phil went cycling around the sea wall, Kenn and I walked to Canada Placeon the harbour where we would be boarding our cruise ship.
There were signposts on the deck to other parts of Canada. Couldn’t resist – I can’t be the only fan of ‘Anne of Green Gables’ !On our way to Stanley Park, along the sea wall, we found the marina.
We then made our way along the sea wall to Stanley Park. Words cannot do this park justice. Because I was feeling a little jet lagged, we only explored the city side of Lost Lagoon, leaving the park for a more thorough exploration when we returned from the cruise. The combination of sun, sea, trees and flowers was intoxicating, much more effective than a double shot latte for lifting one’s spirits after the long flight from Australia.
Exiting the park at English Bay, we munched on the best hot dogs for lunch, while watching the tankers round the point.
Bit different from Byron Bay.
We were amazed by the number of locals who were out sunbaking, (though they need to visit Byron to experience a ‘real’ beach), rollerblading and cycling along the promenade. They seemed to exude a real zest for life and the outdoors, which was infectious. I felt healthier just looking at them.
Then it was back to the hotel for a bit of a rest before dinner in Gastown, a short walk from our hotel. Phil led the way to pre-dinner drinks at the Black Frog, a very atmospheric watering hole, specialising in local beers and wines while Helen discovered the culinary delights of the Flying Pig for a memorable first Canadian dinner. From our upstairs window, we had a great view of the famous steam-driven clock and the fairy-lighted streets.
Day Two
What a difference a good night’s sleep makes! Next morning we were up early, ready to explore a little in search of that special coffee and a light breakfast. They take their coffeeseriously here and we were spoilt for choice. In the end, we chose a cafe that specialised in Italian coffee and had a cute outdoor dining spot.Then a quick peak at the shops before we made our way to Canada Place ready for our Alaskan adventure.
Day Three
A week passed all too quickly on the cruise and we found ourselves disembarking on a cloudy Friday morning. We caught a taxi to our next hotel, The Sylvia on English Bay. I had chosen this hotel for its position on the Bay, the price and its proximity to Stanley Park. It was really very comfortable, considering that it was rated as a 3 star hotel. We had only a partial view of the sea but our room was large and comfortable and the views from the restaurant and hotel bar more than compensated.
Our room was on the sixth floor. Hotel has many original features including the lifts.
Luggage stashed, we made our way to Granville Island, a gourmet’s paradise. We took a baby ferry ( these ferries look like they should be in someone’s bathtub) and were there in no time. There was so much produce on display in the food halls that it was difficult to make a choice. Eventually purchasing some artisan bread, cheese and salumi as well as home made soup and new season berries, we found ourselves a comfortable seat on the wharf and indulged in lunch while buskers entertained us. There were lots of handmade arts and crafts as well for those looking for something a little different to take home.
We spent the afternoon at the Vancouver Aquarium, located in Stanley Park. If you love animals and the sea, this is a must see. Every gallery was fascinating but I especially loved watching the children discover the clown fish in the tropical gallery and learning to touch the starfish in their purpose-built environment.
Nemo is so cute!
I laughed along with everyone else at the antics of the beautiful Beluga whales, gleefully splashing unsuspecting members of the audience. And what’s not to love about super frisky sea otters?
Another plus for The Sylvia was that it is close to the restaurant precinct along Denman St.When in a new city I prefer to dine out, enjoying the people, savouring the scents and the lights of the city at night. We eventually chose a Turkish restaurant for dinner. I should have asked how big were the portions as they were enormous and Kenn and I could have shared. For those who like to eat in, I noticed that many of the restaurants did take-away which would be cheaper as you wouldn’t have to pay the tip.
Day Four
Another fine day greeted us. After a very hearty breakfast in the lovely dining room at the Sylvia, we headed off to Denman Stto hire some bikes. A ride along the sea wall that borders Stanley Park beckoned us. This is a very easy, flat ride along a designated bike path. Kenn and I were soon zooming on our way. There was only one problem. When I found myself nearly falling off my bike because a delightful bunch of Japanese girls were giggling their way around, ahead of me, I knew I wasn’t the slowest bike rider on earth anymore. Indeed, I had to master overtaking or topple off!
I saw a lot of Kenn’s back on this trip!
Then it was time to really explore Stanley Park. We had lunch at the Tea House Restaurant, not realising that it was an upmarket establishment. They very kindly let us in despite being dressed in exercise clothes. We then walked deeper into the Park. We found our way to Beaver Lake which was covered in waterlilies about to burst into bloom.
Beaver Lake in late May
It’s always interesting, the people you meet on your expeditions. As we were leaving Beaver Lake, I stopped to look at some berries which looked very appealing but which I thought might be poisonous. A young man stopped and told me that they were Salmon Berries and edible! Lucky me! But its a small world. It turns out that he is an iron man, training to compete on the Sunshine Coast in July.
A tart taste but nice.
The rose garden, as one might expect, was full of beautiful roses, some of which were scented.
Day Five: The Grouse Grind
Today was the day when my fitness would be tested. Kenn and I had agreed to join Helen and Phil on a jaunt to Grouse Mountain. They wanted to walk up the mountain and catch the gondola down, a walk known as the ‘Grouse Grind’ and advertised as being ‘Nature’s Stairmaster’. We used public transport, a seabus and a bus, to get to the beginning of the walk at the base of the mountain. This was indeed a tough climb, 853 metres (2,800) up to the top of the mountain. But while the trail is not long, (it’s only 2.9 kilometres long) you feel as if you are climbing a steep staircase as the average gradient is about 30 degrees. But it is beautiful walking up through the forest.
Steps and more steps and more steps
It took time and a lot of pit stops … a lot of pit stops. They have a competition in Vancouver to see who can post the fastest time for the grind, I think that I was in a competition with a few others, to see who could post the slowest time. But a couple of hours later, I was thankfully relaxing in a delightful cafe on the summit, sipping a hot chocolate and perusing a menu full of healthy and hearty food options. After all, I needed to refuel!
But there’s more to do than the grind on Grouse Mountain. There’s lots of wildlife to see: Grizzly bears and birds of prey as well as a lumberjack show. For those who ride the gondola up, there are lots of hiking trails to explore as well. They didn’t really appeal to me for some reason.
The two grizzlies were having a lovely play together.
And then it was time to go down via the gondola and enjoy the amazing view over Vancouver and the ocean.
Certainly a tram with a view
Making our way home, picking up some Epsom salts on the way,( a long soak in the bath was definitely in order), we discovered some beautiful old streets in the West End with some delightful architecture. I would have liked to explore these more but you can never fit everything in.
As it was, the weather had been so ‘bluebird’, I hadn’t made it to an art gallery or a museum or a theatre, something I like to do when in a foreign city. But in a way, I think that the beautiful natural environment of Vancouver is what makes this city so special and I’m glad she shared it with us.
Returning from one of the most memorable and enjoyable holidays we have ever had, a month long trip to Alaska, British Columbia and Alberta, I wanted to share some of the highlights. From the start, Kenn and I wanted more time than an organised tour would allow, to do our own thing and soak in the magic. But, early in the planning phase, I discovered that there was very little explicit information about possible routes and itineraries for couples like us who wanted to drive themselves through this beautiful region of the world and didn’t want to break the bank in the process.
Although we would be travelling at a popular time, late May and early June, I knew it couldn’t be that hard. After all, Canada is like Australia only with more snow and much higher mountains. Alright, they drive on the wrong side of the road, but my daughter Melissa assured me that the roads were excellent and that if she could co-drive an old Camry from Whistler to Alaska without getting eaten by bears, then her father would have no problems whatsoever sedately driving from Vancouver
View of Burrard Street from our window of the Sutton Hotel
to Whistler along the Sea to Sky highway
Panorama from the top of Whistler Mountain
and onto Jasper taking the back road through Lillooet and Kamloops
Pyramid Lake, Jasper
and then along the Icefields Parkway to lovely Lake Louise ,
Banff
The Bow River at Banff
and back to Vancouver. A mere 3000 kilometres give or take a kilometre or two!
The outline of the route decided, I perused the map to pinpoint other wonderful places to visit and explore along the way. Some of the names of the lesser-known towns were seductive such as Lillooet, Clearwater,Field, Revelstoke and Golden. Yoho and Glacier National Parks as well as the Wells Grey Provincial Park seemed well worth visiting and for anyone who loves driving, the thrill of driving one of the great scenic roads in the world, the Icefields Parkway, cannot be underestimated.
Car hire from Thrify was very affordable. We booked it through our travel agents, Narelle and Amandaat www.dynamictravel.com.au and it worked out to be about $60 a day for a VW Jetta. We organised to pick it up from Vancouver Airport following our stay in Vancouver itself.
One interesting thing we found out when we picked up the car was that we could have taken our car over to Vancouver Islandon the ferry.We had been informed in Australia that if we did, we would not be insured. This is apparently not the case. Next time, I would check directly with the relevant car hire company by phone and email, as being able to take the ferry would save time and money.
Once, the route had been decided it was time to book accommodation. I decided on a combination of hotels, motels, cabins, apartments and BnB’s mostly sourced through Booking.com or through recommendations on Trip Adviser. I restricted my search to mostly 4 stars. I’m not really a hostel or yurt person! I love a few creature comforts like fluffy bath robes and the occasional hot tub. Although we didn’t get to stay at the Fairmont, I was really happy with all my choices and found that booking early ( four or five months in advance) saved a significant amount of money. The accommodation bill for three weeks totalled approximately $3ooo. One thing that I hadn’t factored in was the number of daylight hours at this time of the year in Canada. I’ve never been anywhere where it’s still light at ten o’clock in the evening and had worked out travel times so as to arrive at about four o’clock in the afternoon.
We had a fabulous time, helped by great weather. I am looking forward to sharing details of each stage of the road trip in later posts and hope you will join me. I would also love to hear about your adventures in Canada if you would like to share.
‘Brunch du Bebe’, Melissa’sbaby shower was held last weekend. Yes, you are reading correctly, Melissa and Ben are having a honeymoonbaby, due around June 15th. As you can imagine, we are all very excited. But, she is on strict instructions from her father and me to take things easy, put her feet up and rest as much as possible so as to be on time or preferably late…by about a week. For you see, prior to the wedding in September, Kenn and I booked a trip to Canada and unfortunately we don’t get back until the 12th June!
Lissa wanted the shower to be at their home and so she didn’t have too much to do, Kenn and I helped where we could. Kenn demonstrated the awesome paper skills, old school primary teachers have and made the bunting in shades of pink and blue as no-one knows whether its a little boy or a little girl yet.
Can’t wait till you arrive baby Gow!
Melissa and Jo created the awesome atmospherewith gauzy ribbons, roses and white linens.
Little details make a difference.
The games were fun. Not surprisingly, Emma guessed the circumference of Melissa’s tummy (She is due three days after Liss) and fabric painting our singlets allowed some of the guests to showcase their design credentials.( I have none!!!) Then it was time for brunch.
The food was very tasty and mostly imbued with a French influence. I volunteered to make pink and blue cupcakes and a gluten free orange cake. Now the cupcakes were a breeze but the orange cake was nearly a disaster! There I was, the night before, happily following my friend Annie’s recipe. I boiled the oranges for two hours, whizzed them in the food processor, added the eggs, sugar and what I thought was 250 grams of almond meal. Dumped the lot in the cake tin and put it into the oven. Deed done I thought. Wrong! I was clearing away and looked at the back of the almond meal pack. I saw to my horror that 250 grams was about 2 and 1/2 cups and I had put only one cup in. I had confused 250 mls with 250 grams! I looked at the time. The cake had been in the oven for about five minutes. Nothing ventured, nothing gained I thought. I whipped the cake out of the oven, poured the batter back in the bowl and added the extra almond meal. My daughter in law, Kelly assured me that it would be great, just like twice baked camembert! And she was right, the orange cake turned out great … in the end. Others helped as well. Brooke made her wonderful mini quiches and Lissa and Jo whipped up fabulous fruit and cheese platters,croissants, meringuesand mini baguettes. Together with a glass or two of champagne or fruit punch, it was a veritable feast.
Some of the goodies we consumed.
I’ve watched as Melissa and her friends navigated the ups and downs of High School, university, jobs and relationships and now I’m watching as they become mothers to adorable children. And I loved seeing Genevieve having such a good time. She looked so adorable with her pink bow.
Look I have a friend who is helping me with the dishwasher!That was great Baby G! What are we going to do next?
And of course there were presents. Lots of them! All imbued with love and best wishes for the safe arrival of Bebe Gow.
And to make a great day perfect, Melissa found favour with the weather gods at last and not before time. Could anyone forget the 200 mls of rain which fell the day before her 21st birthday party? Even for Byron, that’s a lot of rain and it turned what was meant to be a summer garden party into a slushy mud fest. Or her wedding day, where outside the church, just as all the family and group photographs were to be taken, the wind attacked, swirling our dresses and ensuring that our hair took on the Hermione Granger look. Imagine my relief when despite dire predictions of rain showers and wind, the day was perfect: sunny, not too hot, not too cold. Third time lucky, I guess.
Until recently, we were a cat family. There were occasional deviations, most notably ‘Cutlets’, the abandoned lamb Kenn raised to be an interim lawn mower when we lived in Wagga Wagga, but otherwise only cats with personality have shared their lives and antics with us. Secretly though, I think that Kenn has always had a soft spot for puppies demonstrated by his determination to teach our kittens ‘doggie’ tricks. For example, Muffin, a white Persian kitten, learnt to play fetch and would stay and sit on command, often on Kenn’s desk as he started and completed 3000 word essays the night before they were due. Nym, a lovely gentle Himalayan, learnt to beg for treats and snuggle close while watching TV, while our latest kitten, Callie, races puppylike down the hallway to the front door when she hears his car pull up outside. Who needs a puppy when they can have a kitten, I thought. But I now realise that these tricks are pale imitations of the ‘joys’ of ‘real’ puppies.
Ninja
Hannibal
Moet
My first close encounter of the puppy kind came with Moet.Friends, Helen and Phil, (longtime dog gurus) welcomed an adorable, golden retriever puppy into their home. Moet was lovely: not too yappy, not too boisterous, definitely not bitey and best of all, sensitive to the needs of her human friends. She was, and is, content to sit and wait quietly while we humans chat over a coffee or tea, sip a champagne while nibbling some cheese or indulge in a late breakfast. My puppy prejudices were fading away….
Someone has to make the place look good!
Then Melissa and Ben returned from their honeymoon and blithely let us know that we were going to grandparents – to a red and white border collie, named Ninja. What fun, I thought. I can play with a cute bundle of fluff until Ninja is suitably tired and cross and then hand her back to her parents. Isn’t that what grandparents do? Have all the fun and none of the fuss?
I’m so lovely when I’m asleep
Alas, no-one told me anything about toilet training and puppies before I volunteered to puppy sit. Ninja was so loving that she greeted us and anyone who visited with a liquid gift. Consequently, I found myself hosing down the back patio – a lot. And I squishily learnt that the ability to hold one’s breath for at least a minute was essential while mastering the ins and outs of plastic poo bags. Luckily, knots mastered at Girl Guides, so long ago, actually did work.
And while I knew that puppies and dogs love bones, I was unaware that many puppies share with Imelda Marcos, a fetish for shoes. Unbeknownst to us, her minders, Ninja collected and cherished seven pairs of shoes from our next door neighbour, Bob. Ninja didn’t understand what all the fuss was about as she left one shoe of each pair for its human owner. What could be fairer than that?
But it’s easy to ignore these puppy peccadilloes because most of the time she is so much fun and like all babies takes so much enjoyment in the simple things in life like a walk on the beach. As we walk along the bush path to Tallows Beach, it’s easy to see who’s in charge on these excursions.
Wait there! There’s something very interesting in the bushes that needs my attention.
Exiting the path, we all have to cross the road. This has been a small problem, as true to her breeding, Ninja wants to round up every car she meets (they’re just big noisy sheep) but she is slowly learning to look to the right and look to the left before crossing the road.
There has to be a car somewhere!
At last we are on the beach and Ninja is off the lead and running. Faster than a speeding bullet, she finds her friends and the fun begins.
I’ll chase you and then you can chase me.
She is learning the finer points of surfing and loves to jump the waves.
Come on in, the water’s warm.
Then there’s all the interesting stuff to sniff and eat. A bit of seaweed, a shell, a bit of crusty coral, a rotting crab…
There’s pippis to eat if you dig deep enough.
But all too soon, it’s time to go home to Mum, where all tuckered out she sneaks a rest in the bedroom.
Shh! Don’t wake Mum. I’m so comfy here! I’m pretending to be a fox …
Watching Ninja and all the other dogs enjoying the sun, sea and sand has been a great way to spend an hour or two. All fun and no fuss. My type of puppy chore. She is also eager to follow her father’s exploits on the soccer field, casting a discerning eye over the action.
Run, Ben! Faster! You’ll never score a goal at this rate.
Festive celebrations take on another dimension when a puppy is involved. Ninja shared a wonderful Christmas treat with Moet, who has been key in teaching Ninja doggie etiquette.
Just stay there Ninji, this is for grownups. Oh look … it’s got my name on him! Hehe …
But Ninja hasn’t sailed through puppy hood unscathed. Far too soon, she had to visit the Vet for a procedure on her leg and she was a very sad puppy for a couple of weeks.
I know pink is my colour but really, a cone! A collar is bad enough, but a Conehead?
My third close encounter of the puppy kind came not long after Ninja entered our lives. In Darwin, my other daughter, Lyndsay, and her partner, Reece, became lucky parents of a Siberian Husky puppy who they named Hannibal. We haven’t met him face to face yet, but modern technology has allowed us to watch his antics from afar.
He too is adorable … when asleep.
No one disturb me! And no. they are not my eyes. They’re just my eyebrows. Cute, hey?
And like Ninja and Moet, he loves a run on the beach and a dip in the ocean. Lyndsay and Reece, assure me that they keep a careful watch for watery reptiles.
Ah, the sun and the sea, what bliss.
Though Hannibal loves the sea, the pool is also a lovely place to cool down in the tropical heat.
This is so good.
And he is always pleased to see you.
Yes, I am pleased to meet you. You did bring treats?
And that about sums it up. Puppies are always so glad to see you, be with you, share with you that puppy love that just creeps up on you. I’m now very content to be part of a puppy extended family, but I’m not sending Callie to the animal shelter anytime soon!
Byron Dreamer 