From Akaroa with Love

PicMonkey Collage

After we completed the Queen Charlotte Walk in early December, Kenn and I visited Akaroa near Christchurch, before catching our flight home. Friends had said it was a ‘must see’ and they were so right. Cruising along in our little Yaris hire car,  our first surprise unfolded as we drove down, and I mean down and down some more. Akaroa is situated on the edge of a  beautiful harbour, a harbour which was once the centre of a volcano. We  realised we were driving down the sides of a caldera and the views were magnificent.

the caldera
This road will bring out your inner rally driver.

Akaroa is charming. Originally settled by the French,  it is so ooh la la! The french influences are everywhere: from  names, french blue lamp posts and public seating, to the tricolour flying in the breeze. A word or two of my schoolgirl french returned to assist in translation.

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Lots of lovely weatherboard heritage style buildings  and delightful cafes

There are flowers everywhere. From beautiful cottage gardens surrounding delightful BnB’s

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Beautiful roses

to fences and shop fronts garlanded with hanging baskets.

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They obviously remember to water their hanging baskets

We took  leisurely walks along the foreshore to the little lighthouse  and various points of interest sampling the coffee and friands in one establishment and the coffee and croissants in another. We indulged ourselves over breakfast, lunch and dinner. A highlight for me besides the Sunday morning chocolate crepes served by our motel, was the fish. It was superb. There must be something in the water in New Zealand that we don’t have because fish always seems to taste better there than here. I noticed  a Cooking School but alas no classes were running while we were there. I would have loved to take a unique recipe home and know how it should taste and be cooked.

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Lots of french with a kiwi twist inspired recipes

All however was not lost. I found something lovely to take home while souvenir shopping. I was on a bit of a mission. Before departure, Melissa and Ben had shared the happy news that they were expecting a honeymoon baby.  Our second grand child was on the way! What special something could I buy the baby?  It was while I was buying a cute woolly sheep for the nursery that I spied some special baby wool. It was relatively expensive at nearly $14.00 NZ but felt so soft. It was DMC’s 100% Baby, extra fine pure merino wool. Made in Italy, it looks like a 3 ply yarn but knits as a 4 ply.  I have never seen it in Australia, so bought two balls of white. Enough to knit a little something. Then Kenn spotted some great buttons and my purchases were complete.

But as every knitter knows, it is one thing to buy wool, another to knit it up. What would I knit with this special wool? A jumper? Maybe booties? Perhaps a little hat? The hat I had knitted Genevieve had been a hit.

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Genevieve Grace has arrived!

In the end, I decided to knit a cardigan in the newborn to three month size.  Luckily vintage is in, for I decided to use a pattern from the ’70s that my mother-in-law, Betty had given me.  It comes from Patons Pattern book 792, 10 Baby Knits  which, to my amazement is still available on ebay. It was easy to knit and the buttons give it a unisex, contemporary finishing touch, don’t you think? By the way, the cardigan took just one ball of wool!  I think a hat and maybe some booties will be making an appearance.

front of cardigan
Heritage pattern with a twist
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It always feels so good when it’s finished!

So what have I been doing since I finished this project? I’ve started a baby blanket which hopefully will be finished by June. It’s definitely not heritage in any way. An interesting project, it’s something to do after I’ve been for my swim  and beach walk or perhaps shared a coffee with friends.  It’s a wonderful world out there.

beach wallow
The water is so clear and warm at the moment. Perfect for wallowing

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Swimming in the Bay

The weather is perfect for swimming at the moment. Sunny, humid and hot. The crystal blue water  of the bay  beckons swimmers into its cool embrace. There,  in waist deep water, I float and splash about. Occasionally, very occasionally I catch a wave and ride it to shore.  Heat disappears as my body chills down. It’s lovely, really lovely.

Relaxing under the umbrella, soaking up the smell of salt, sunscreen and hot chips,  I watch as some intrepid souls swim across the bay. Out where you can’t stand up. Out where things, with fins, swim. I can’t make myself do it. Not when I can swim without being nibbled, in what has to be one of the most scenic public swimming pools in Australia,  the Byron Bay Memorial Pool.

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Looking across the 50 meter pool to the ocean

The pool is located at the top of Johnson St, adjacent to Main Beach and overlooks the bay. Like me, there are many who come to the pool to swim laps. There are always three or four lanes set out for this purpose.

plenty of lanes for serious swimmers
There are designated lanes to suit all swimming abilities

Usually you’ll have to share a lane with others. When this happens, I don my flippers, content to complete my session with a freestyle workout. But sometimes you can be lucky and have a lane all to yourself.

my lane awaits me
Doesn’t this look inviting?

Then,  I can attempt a  backstroke lap or two without inflicting a concussion on some poor, unsuspecting soul or if you swim breaststroke in a manner and at a speed  resembling a galapagos  tortoise, as I do, then you won’t hold others up. You can take as long as you like swimming a lap or resting between laps or indeed in the middle of a lap. No one will know!

As well as a 50 meter pool there is a babies pool and a beginner’s pool. Consequently, the pool is very popular with families of younger children. I notice lots of young mums, relaxing with a coffee from Fishheads, watching on as their children play or have swimming lessons.

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Entry to the pool is on the left hand side of the cafe.

 

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The beginner’s pool has a wonderful view of the Bay
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Little ones love splashing about in the shade.

After your swim, you might like to relax for a while.

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Have you left that sun lounger for me?

Perhaps meet friends at the Top Pub for lunch. But wait, you tell me,  you’re wearing eau de chlorine!  Nothing to worry about. The change rooms are more than adequate for a quick transformation and for an extra 50 cents you can even have a hot shower!  Or perhaps like me, you might just like to double dip: into the pool and then the ocean. It’s right there, waiting!

Our local pool is a great resource. Greg and his team do a wonderful job maintaining it for all of us. This season, entry is $4.00 for adults, less for children and pensioners.

Hope to see you there.

 

 

 

 

Lunching at the Lighthouse

iconic byron lighthouse
Byron Lighthouse from the new deck of the Cafe

My Tuesday was not behaving itself!  I had intended to have of a lovely morning catching up with my fellow golf enthusiasts for a coaching session with Nicky Rickon, a leisurely coffee and perhaps,  a few holes of golf at Mullumbimby Golf Club. But sadly, it was not to be.  I found myself crawling along Broken Head Road. This was not good. I was going to be very, very late. But my golf clubs were nestled between the odd towel and beach chair in the boot and my feet were wearing socks and sneakers for the first time in months, ready to traverse beckoning fairways, so I detoured.  A few holes at Byron would surely satisfy my golfing itch.

Although it was a very warm morning, there was a breeze so it was with some enthusiasm that I paid my money and made my way to the back nine as directed. I hadn’t played for a couple of months and as expected it took me one or two more shots than usual to complete the my first hole. But to compensate for a less than celebratory fairway performance, I did sink a long putt!  I hit off the second and missed the water. All good. Then disaster. The Ladies Comp  caught up to me. They suggested, nicely, that I hightail it over to the 14th, hit down to the clubhouse and play a few holes on the front nine so that I didn’t get in their way. There was only one problem.  I got a trifle lost and ended up on the 13th. Where was the 14th?  Obviously, my map reading skills need a little fine tuning. Feeling decidedly hot and bothered, I decided to tee off. Then I heard the sound. The sound of an approaching golf cart. I looked up. The lady golfers had me in their sights. There was nothing for it but to pick up my ball and drag my buggy and myself back to the clubhouse.

I felt that I had already walked nine holes but wasn’t ready to give up just yet. “The front nine might be more challenging but is more scenic,” I’d been reliably informed. As I dragged myself down and up, across and back, I  got hotter and hotter. For once, my ball didn’t seek the trees like a ballistic missile. I was stuck in the middle of the fairway. Repeatedly.  Melting. In the tropical oasis that is Byron, I felt as if I was trekking across the Sahara … without a camel! Three holes later, I called it a day. I didn’t want the R.I.P sign at the side of the Golf Club driveway to commemorate me.

Lying on the couch under a fan with an ice pack on my neck, Kenn took pity on me. “How about I take you and Annie out for coffee and maybe lunch?”  My day suddenly brightened. Taking advantage of our new National Parks parking sticker, we decided that lunch on the newly completed deck at the Lighthouse Cafe would be perfect.

deck overlooks the bay
Can you ever get tired of such a view?

view of the deck at lighthouse cafe

 The cafe offers simple pleasures. Coffee, milkshakes, rolls, quiches, gourmet pies and sausage rolls to mention a few and the best ice cream in Byron Bay.

menu at lighthouse cafe
We tried the vegetarian quiche, the gourmet pie and the chicken and pesto roll. Needless to say, not a crumb was left on our plates.  And the coffee hit the spot!
gelati at lighthouse cafe
In the Pink ice cream and gelati. So hard to resist.

Lunch finished, we lingered a little. Rested a little.

the bay
Just dreaming

For newcomers to the bay, information about Lighthouse Tours and the National Park can be found in the Lighthouse Keepers House directly behind the cafe.

lighthouse keeper's cottage
Imagine being a lighthouse keeper here! There is limited paid parking available at the Lighthouse if you do not have a National Parks permit.

Refreshed, Annie and I meandered down the track, past the most easterly point of Australia to Wategoes where Kenn kindly picked us up.

overlooking wategoes
After the morning’s adventures, a strictly downhill stroll to Wategoes was all I could muster.

Lunch at the Lighthouse Cafe was a  lovely and unexpected way to end the morning.

 

Queen Charlotte Track: Day 4

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Mistletoe Bay, Queen Charlotte Sound

REST DAY AT PORTAGE BAY

Like most who tackle the Queen Charlotte Track, we walked the actual track in four days. But as this was our first long distance, multi-day hike, we added a rest day at Portage Bay.

This was mainly my idea. I know my limitations. While I’m up for a challenge, I didn’t want the walk to become a punishment. I knew from past experience, that walking for eight hours up hill and down dale would leave me a trifle knackered.  A good dinner and a Pinot Grigio might not be sufficient to restore my spirits.  My feet might need rest and some tender loving care if I wanted them to happily walk a further 20 kms to Anakiwa to finish.

So we rested at the Portage Hotel. As we soaked in the hot tub, massaging our aches and pains away, we congratulated ourselves on our decision. Following a gentle stroll in the rain, the weather closed in and we were content to curl up on a comfy sofa before the open fire, meet fellow travelers and hope that the weather  would clear overnight.

PORTAGE BAY TO MISTLETOE BAY

After all the rain, the clouds disperse
After all the rain, the clouds disperse

After three days of overcast weather, imagine how thrilled we were when we were greeted by sunny skies. The Portage Hotel supplies a courtesy bus that takes walkers up the hill to rejoin the track.  There we tackled the hill that would lead the way across the Torea Saddle to Mistletoe Bay.

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ever upwards

This is quite a hill but the views from the top were amazing.

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The bays just seem to go on forever.

This section was challenging enough. I was huffing and puffing my way downhill towards Mistletoe Bay when a party of Primary School students passed us going uphill. Some were darting up ahead while others were almost skipping up the hill, singing as they went. Such stamina! No wonder, New Zealand produced  Sir Edmund Hilary.

MISTLETOE BAY TO ANAKIWA

After Mistletoe Bay, the track takes a downhill turn and it’s easy walking to Anakiwa.

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I’m not complaining, love a steady downhill.

There are still wonderful vistas over the sound but the vegetation is changing. There are more flowering plants.

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This reminded me of a wild fushia only bigger
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I think that this Manuka

But even on this section, the water is beside you, shimmering shades of aquarmarine.

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I’m a happy wanderer

Then, all of a sudden it seemed, we were at sea level, walking through beech forests past little coves with sandy beaches.

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We’re nearly down
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Would love to return to explore these beaches

Before too long we reached our destination, Anakiwa. We were sore…and tired…but oh so happy. We enjoyed an ice cream while we waited for our Cougar Line water taxi to pick us up. As we skimmed over the water on our way back to Picton, everyone was quiet, reflective, treasuring their memories of the panoramas of the Queen Charlotte Track.

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We will be back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Queen Charlotte Track: Day 3

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Kenepuru  Sound

Day 3

From Mahana Lodge to Bay of Many Coves Campsite

Day 3 was indeed challenging. All along, I had been worried about this section of the track. Not only was it approximately an eight hour, 24.5 km walk from  Mahana Lodge to Portage Bay,  examination of the elevation map had shown me that I would be walking uphill … a lot. To complicate matters, the weather was even mistier and more overcast than on Day 2.

However, we refused to be daunted. Our gear had dried overnight and it was with a sense of adventure that we set out. The first hurdle, walking a kilometer or so up a steep driveway and road to rejoin the track, was negotiated rather easily.  Then I realised  I had left my phone/camera in the Lodge. I felt a little like Eeyore as I walked back down, retrieved the phone and walked a little more slowly up the road again. Just a couple of extra kms that I didn’t need to walk!  Not that anyone was counting.  My feet were not amused.

But the track soon lifted our spirits. Climbing the Kenepuru Saddle, we circled around a valley lost in time.

looking down into the valley
How green is my valley? Even in the rain!

Then the detour to Eatwell’s Lookout appeared. But the clouds were darkening and the mist seemed thicker so we decided that the lookout would have to wait for another trip.

the clouds get thicker
Stormy skies

But as this photo from nz.geoview.info shows, on a fine day, it would have definitely been worth walking the extra few kilometers. You can look out over the sounds,  all the way to the North Island!

eatwell's lookout
Eatwell’s Lookout. Oh for a sunny day!

After Eatwell’s Lookout, the track climbs and climbs.  I thought that it would never end. Kenn remarked that it was like completing the climb to the Byron Lighthouse, 20 times. No wonder my thighs were on fire! Well as they say, no pain, no gain!

But all good things come to an end and eventually the  covered rest shelter  at  Bay of Many Coves, that Ann Martin had suggested as our lunch stop, came into view.

lunchtime and what a view

Bay of Many Coves. View from the lunch shelter.

There, surrounded by the happy chatter of junior high boys on a school field trip, Kenn and I enjoyed our magnificent lunch. It gladdened our hearts to see so many young people on the track having such a wonderful time and not an iPhone or earplug in sight.

Bay of Many Coves Campsite to Portage Bay

Leaving Bay of Many Coves, the track meanders through the forest. The uphills seem a little easier and there is definitely a lot more downhill. Yippee!

through tunnels of vegetation
Tunnels of vegetation

Every now and then, we would come to a vantage point that overlooked the sounds. Even under grey skies, it was breathtaking.

the water is still beautiful under grey skies
The water is still beautiful under grey skies

But as the afternoon wore on, the skies lightened a little and the sun tried to sneak through.

The light is trying to break through
The light is trying to break through.

A couple of climbs later, we reached Black Rock campsite. We stopped for afternoon tea and breathed a sigh of relief. Only 7kms to go.  And mainly downhill too. As we gently spiraled down into Portage Bay, it was tree fern heaven and at last we were there and the tranquil waters of the bay lay ahead.

the Portage jetty
The jetty at Portage Bay

I won’t lie. We were knackered. We had been dreaming of a hot shower, soft shoes, a stiff drink (well I had been) and something tasty for dinner for many hours. All this and more was waiting for us, at our home for the night, the Portage Resort Hotel.

I thought back over the day. Would I do it again?  Definitely!  Ann Martin was spot on. Today had been very challenging, but oh so rewarding.

 

 

Queen Charlotte Track, Day 2

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Even in the misty rain, it’s beautiful.

Walking around Endeavour Inlet.

New Zealand isn’t known as the Land of the Long White Cloud for nothing. We woke on Day 2, to a misty, cloudy day, for our walk around Endeavour Inlet to Mahana Lodge, our destination for the night. This was a relatively easy walk of around 15 kms as our chosen accommodation for Day 1, Cnoc na Lear, was situated on the northern side of the inlet.

Cnoc na Lear to Furneaux Lodge

The mist subtly coloured the landscape, giving it an otherworldly dimension as we walked the 2 or 3 kms to Furneaux Lodge which is located in a wonderful setting at the head of the inlet.

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View from Cnoc na Lear across the Inlet to Furneaux Lodge jetty

 The weather also gave us the opportunity to test some of the gear we had purchased for just such an occasion. I have to say that my Kathmandu merino t-shirt and rain jacket passed the test.  I was super comfortable and dry all day. I will admit though, it’s not a look you will see on a Paris catwalk.

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Dressed for the rain in my Kathmandu gear at Furneaux Lodge

Furneaux Lodge to Miners Camp

This part of the walk passes through ferny forest and traverses the head of the Inlet.

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If you have time to spare, there’s also a waterfall or two to visit near Furneaux Lodge

And across a suspension bridge over a tumbling creek and on through some open grassland to Miner’s camp.

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Feels like a real adventure when you cross a suspension bridge or two!

It was in this open grassland that I made my first mistake. As this part of the walk was relatively flat, I hadn’t carried my walking poles, a decision I was to regret. The grass was thick, high and very, very wet. Within minutes, my tights and socks were soaked and my toes were wallowing around in my boots. Not a peaceful, easy feeling! If only I could have parted the grass with my poles, like Moses parting the Red Sea.  But Punga Cove was still hours away, so undeterred, we squished and squelched our way on to Miners Camp.

Miners Camp to Punga Cove and Mahana Lodge

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We leave the grassland and climb up and down along the southern arm of Endeavour Inlet.

We were now on the southern side of the Inlet and this was the most strenuous part of the Day 2 walk.  We seemed to be trudging uphill through forest … a lot. There were tree ferns everywhere sprouting forth.

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And little coves with  private jetties.

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It wasn’t only a sea of green. There were flowering shrubs. One which caught my eye was this one. Have no idea what it was but it had a lovely scent.

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Reminds me of an Australian tea tree

We were rewarded with lovely vistas over secluded coves, perfect for a lunchtime break as we made our way towards Punga Cove and our destination for the night, Mahana Lodge.

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Adrift on a sea of aquamarine

It was mid afternoon by the time we reached Punga Cove. We passed the DOC campsite at Camp Bay and then passed the Punga Cove Resort. We were tired and for a moment, I wished I had booked our second night here. But about another kilometer further on, Mahana Lodge awaited us.

Here, hosts John and Ann Martin made us feel at home. As we were getting acquainted and selecting our dinner menu for the evening, we discovered that John and Ann had lived for a number of years in Kenn’s home town of Condobolin in central NSW. John had worked at the Agricultural Research Station undertaking research into rabbit control in the early 1970s. They remembered the town and its people very fondly. It’s truly a small world.

Our ensuite room in the lodge was spacious and luxurious. After a long, hot shower and wrapped in a super soft complimentary dressing gown, I enjoyed a leisurely afternoon tea.  Ann’s wonderful home baking did not last very long I can assure you.

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The  sitting room in the Lodge. That sofa was very comfortable, a great place for a cuppa and a good book.
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Storm clouds gather over the homestead, as seen from the sitting room in the Lodge

Dinner in the candlelit conservatory at the homestead was very special and memorable. We enjoyed artisan bread baked by Ann and mussels in white wine as our entree. We chose salmon from the sound, smoked by John to his recipe, over wild rice as our main course which was accompanied by  the freshest salad.  All ingredients had been picked that day by John from his extensive garden. Food when it’s local and super fresh always tastes amazing. We finished with profiteroles smothered in chocolate and a home made raspberry sauce. Not my usual camping fare I can tell you!

We would have liked to spend longer at Mahana Lodge:  explore the cove on the free kayaks, complete some shorter walks around the inlet or  watch the glow worms  flicker in the creek behind the Lodge.

But the Queen Charlotte beckoned. Day 3, according to Ann, would be challenging yet deeply rewarding!

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Sunset over the cove

While many like us were on a mission to walk the whole track, we met others who only had the time to explore one section of the track before resuming their travels. The walk around Endeavour Inlet was definitely the easiest part of the Queen Charlotte. Walkers would definitely have time to explore as well as walk. So if the thought of  day hikes of 20 plus kms is a little daunting, you can still immerse yourself in the New Zealand wilderness with this part of the walk.

The Queen Charlotte Track: Part 1

Queen Charlotte from the lookout
The Queen Charlotte Sound as viewed from the Ship’s Cove lookout

Finishing the Queen Charlotte, one of New Zealand’s great walks, was an amazing feeling!  I was elated that I had actually walked all 70 kms without needing to be air lifted out or having to abandon the walk and take a water taxi back to civilisation. It was challenging and exhilarating but oh so rewarding.

 

Picton Harbour
Picton Harbour

The walk is located on the top of the South Island, just north of Picton.  I had been keen to attempt it ever since  I discovered that I didn’t have to forgo too many creature comforts. You see, the Queen Charlotte track is accessed by water taxi. For  around $100 pp, they take you to the starting point of the track, pick you up at the end and deliver your luggage to your accommodation along the track each day. They will even pick you up along the way if you find yourself unable to continue!  This means that you only have to carry a day pack, you get to sleep in a comfortable bed at night and someone else prepares dinner, lunch and breakfast for you. This walk had my name all over it.

The adventure begins

Whatever way you choose to walk the track: guided, self guided or as independent walkers like Kenn and I, you need to stay somewhere before and after the walk.  We chose the historic Echo Lodge BnB  overlooking the harbour in Picton.  Wonderful hosts, Sharon and Russell really looked after us, recommending restaurants and even storing excess luggage for us. After devouring a wonderful breakfast, Russell delivered us to the marina where our Cougar Line water taxi awaited us.

Ship Cove

Soon, we were skimming over the smoothest, incredibly aqua water and before long we were at Ship Cove, ready to begin.

jetty at ships cove
How clear is this water?

As we walked along the jetty, we decided to detour a little and look at the monument to Captain Cook. 

captain cook monument
Captain Cook visited here several times on his voyages … but he refused to do the walk!

But we couldn’t procrastinate for ever. The first climb awaited. This was quite steep and quite long but the views as we trudged and trudged some more were worth it.

view of ships cove after the big first climb
View of the jetty from on high

After about two hours of slogging it up a mountain (I would call it a mountain even if the Kiwis would call it a hill), we reached the lookout and decided to stop, enjoy some morning tea and the views. From here you can see both the Queen Charlotte  and Kenepuru Sounds. So beautiful!

Keperu sound
Kenepuru Sound – Is that a jetty way down there?

The track then winds down into Resolution Bay and  on through ferny forests to Endeavour Inlet.

path from resolution bay
The path was much wider than I expected

Kenn and I were into a rhythm, just walking and enjoying the silence. (Well, I was just walking but he was enjoying the silence!)  We heard a few bird calls but not much else.

chicks sharing our lunch
A Weka chick and it’s mother joined us for lunch.

Not that I’m complaining. I loved that I couldn’t hear any slithery sounds!

Kenn striding out
And Kenn was always willing to wait for me!

Four and half hours later, we reached our destination for the night, Cnoc na Lear, about two kilometers from  the head of the Endeavour Inlet.  

bridge leading to Endeavour Inlet
A mossy bridge guards the entrance to Endeavour Inlet

Our room was very comfortable and private and our luggage was waiting. It’s light until around 9.00pm in December in New Zealand so we had plenty of time to explore the foreshore.

anyone for mussels
Anyone for mussels?

Then it was indulgence time. Noeline, our hostess, provided a foot spa for us! Needless to say, after a brief squabble, which I won, we both made use of it. Soon a delicious dinner was delivered to our room as we watched the sun set over the water. 

 

clear waters of Endeavour Inlet
Not exactly Byron Beach, but still …

While our stay at Croc Na Lear was lovely, we noticed that it was up for sale at the time so may or may not be available today.  In hindsight, we would have made our second day of walking or as the Kiwis say it, ‘tramping’ very easy if we had booked to stay at Endeavour Lodge which has a prime position at the head of the inlet. Prices were very similar as I recall. 

Maybe this walk when the Trans-Tasman bubble becomes a reality, is something you would like to do. And I hope you will join me as I re- discover the joys of Endeavour Inlet on Day 2 of the Queen Charlotte Walk.

 

 

The Worung Bagus

When Annie  Milic asked me whether I wanted to go to lunch at a new cafe on the beachfront,  of course I said “yes!” I love going to a new eatery. So many unknowns! What sort of eatery is it? How is the space decorated? Does it have a welcoming ambiance? Are the hosts approachable and obliging?  And most importantly how good is the food and the coffee?

The Worung Bagus did not disappoint. Situated across from the Surf Club, the cafe has a  youthful vibe,  relaxed Balinese decor and delightful, enthusiastic hosts. The cafe offers both eat in or take-away.

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A lovely spot for tourist watching

 In the mood for something hot, Annie and I perused the curry bar.

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The smell was amazing

We decided on the ‘small’ plate for $11.90.  But there were difficult decisions to make: did we want Nasi Goreng or a wonderfully fragrant brown rice? What curry would we choose – vegetable, seafood, chicken or  beef rendang? Then we had to choose three vegetable sides and  I wanted all of them!  Eventually, I chose the eggplant balado, steamed vegetables  and Cap Cay. And there were additional condiments to adorn our plates as well. Heavily laden, and our coffees ordered, we made ourselves comfortable on the deck and enjoyed every morsel. Then our coffee arrived with a lovely complimentary gluten free home baked cookie. For what more could we ask?

curry and vegetable bar
The Salad and Fruit bar

Next time and there definitely be a next time, I will explore the salad and juice bar.  The ingredient list was just what you would hope to see, when experiencing a  ‘ I need to be super healthy today’ moment. For me, these moments often occur after close encounters with decadent deserts.

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I like the sound of the Kelapa, what would you choose?

So if you are visiting Byron and looking for something a little organically different  or you just happen to be another  hungry local, consider visiting the Worung Bagus. Whether you decide to eat in or picnic in the park overlooking the beach and the bay, you won’t be disappointed.

the bagus

Rainforest magic

Would you love to walk down a rain forest path shaded by tree ferns and ancient antarctic beech trees? Follow a cascading mountain steam to uncover a myriad of  unique waterfalls?  Reach a lookout where you can see the forest meet the sea?  If so, then the Tooloona Creek Circuit at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat in the Lamington National Park, is the walk for you!

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Water cascading over rocks near Elabana Falls

Although our family has visited the Lamington National Park regularly over the past 20 years, we had never  undertaken this particular walk.  I had huffed and puffed my way around the 11km Box Tree Circuit, dragged myself achingly, slowly, one step at a time up the mountain from Stairway Falls  and nearly had a snake induced heart attack at Python Rock,  but I had baulked at the 18 kms  Toolona Creek Circuit!  It’s not that I’m against exercise per se, but the thought of climbing 1000 metres from  Elabana Falls to the ridge line, with a further 9 kms to walk home seemed, well,  a trifle excessive.

 But Kenn and I are off to the south island of New Zealand in December to walk the Queen Charlotte Track and I knew that some serious training was needed.

Lyndsay leading the way

So armed with my shiny, new walking boots, I tackled this walk accompanied by Kenn,  my daughter, Lyndsay and her fiance  Reece. I’m great at walking down hills so the first six kms were easy, We cruised down to Elabana Falls passing beautiful  stands of tree ferns and listening to birdsong. We stopped for morning tea at the aptly named Picnic rock and refreshed, were ready to tackle the Toolona Creek section of the walk.

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Cascades running over river rocks

Initially, we followed the creek and were delighted by fern encrusted cascades of water rippling over mossy rocks. Then, a couple of creek crossings later,  we started to climb.  To my surprise, this was much easier than I thought it would be. The track was quite rocky and damp, so we had to be careful and go slow. This suited me perfectly. I certainly haven’t inherited any mountain goat genes!

Around every second bend we encountered a new part of the creek cascading down a unique waterfall. Each one was different, each one was lovely! We counted 17 different waterfalls in total along this section ranging from cascades to the spectacular Toolona Falls.

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This is so pretty!

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Like a veil, covering the rocks.

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What a drop!

Tooloona Falls reworked by google photos!
Tooloona Falls. photo by me, reworked by google photos! Nice…I think.

Not only were the waterfalls wonderful but the rain forest itself was spectacular. Along this section there were ferny tree gardens growing in the canopy. But all good things come to an end and before we knew it we were on the Border Track.

Near to the intersection of the Tooloona Creek and Border tracks, there is a wonderful lookout with a spectacular view, where we stopped for a well earned lunch.

View from the Border track to Mount Warning and the Pacific Ocean.
View from the Border track to Mount Warning and the Pacific Ocean.

Although we still had to walk 9 kms to O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat, this was quite easy as it was mainly downhill. About halfway home, we encountered the Antarctic Beeches. These are amazing trees, remnants of when Australia was part of Gondwana! This is a wonderful part of the rain forest, so dark and so deep. All too soon, we were back. Ready to enjoy Happy Hour and watch the sun set over the ranges.

Sunset over the ranges
Sunset over the ranges

The Toolona Creek circuit is located in the Lamington National Park in the Gold Coast Hinterland, about two and a half hours drive from Byron Bay. We stayed at O’Reilly’s Guest House in a Rainforest Villa which was a wonderful experience in itself. We didn’t have time luxuriate in the Lost World Spa, one of the many amenities at the resort, but next time it’s definitely on our list of things to do. Maybe you would like to join us some time?

Lady Golfers Rule!

Tackling the front nine at Byron Bay
Tackling the front nine at Byron Bay

I’ve discovered that lady golfers, to quote Lady Macbeth, “are full of the milk of human kindness.”

Over the past year, my golfing journey has had many ups and downs. There have been many days when  my body just didn’t want to do what I was telling it to do. I thought I was following instructions but discovered that what I thought I was doing and what I was actually doing were poles apart.  I was standing too far or too close to the ball and as a consequence was aerating  grass that really didn’t want to be aerated. My grip was wrong ( I realise now that I was holding it in a manner reminiscent of Barney Rubble)  and unbeknownst to me, I lifted my head.  To make matters worse, my feet were always pointing in the wrong direction (no wonder so many of my balls seemed to have a love connection with the trees) and my weight was too far on the back foot. (Just as well that there aren’t any rabbits on the course because I would have wiped them out with my ground hugging torpedoes.) As well, far too often, my swing was too fast or my follow through was on the nose, literally!

We're all getting closer to the pin! Yay!
We’re all getting closer to the pin! Yay!

But  someone once said that the first thing golf teaches you is humility and that’s so true. But I’ve also discovered that it’s the empathy and encouragement that a beginner receives from lady golfers in particular, that gives them the patience to keep practicing, the will to keep on going.

Nicky keeping a watchful eye on us all
Nicky keeping a watchful eye on us all as the storm clouds gather.

Our Golf Pro, Nicky Dickon never gets impatient, never seems to mind repetition and always finds something positive in your game.  The lady members, go out of their way to welcome us and share ‘secret lady golfers’ business’ with us.  My golfing group is always supportive, never noticing the bad shots and always praising the good ones. Their company, as we enjoy our coffee after our lesson, is always fun and adds a wonderful social dimension to my week.

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Annie and I remembered to park down the bottom this time! The hill to the club house is very, very steep.

The first hole at Teven Golf Course
The first hole at Teven Golf Course. Annie and I had such fun! Lunch at Lennox was good too.

Playing with Ben and Christian at Byron
Playing with Ben and Christian at Byron

 

Because of their support,  I have ventured onto other courses, notably Teven and Byron Bay and participated in my first invitational.  There have been  increasingly more days when I seem to be one with the ball. Days when my drive goes straight down the fairway and not into a hazard, my iron shots see some airtime and my chip shots land within coo-ee of a pin, welcoming in my ball with open arms. Par at last!

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