From Akaroa with Love

March 7, 2016March 7, 2016 ~ margaretsealey ~ Leave a comment

After we completed the Queen Charlotte Walk in early December, Kenn and I visited Akaroa near Christchurch, before catching our flight home. Friends had said it was a ‘must see’ and they were so right. Cruising along in our little Yaris hire car, our first surprise unfolded as we drove down, and I mean down and down some more. Akaroa is situated on the edge of a beautiful harbour, a harbour which was once the centre of a volcano. We realised we were driving down the sides of a caldera and the views were magnificent.

the caldera — This road will bring out your inner rally driver.

Akaroa is charming. Originally settled by the French, it is so ooh la la! The french influences are everywhere: from names, french blue lamp posts and public seating, to the tricolour flying in the breeze. A word or two of my schoolgirl french returned to assist in translation.

PicMonkey Collage2 — Lots of lovely weatherboard heritage style buildings and delightful cafes

There are flowers everywhere. From beautiful cottage gardens surrounding delightful BnB’s

to fences and shop fronts garlanded with hanging baskets.

hanging baskests — They obviously remember to water their hanging baskets

We took leisurely walks along the foreshore to the little lighthouse and various points of interest sampling the coffee and friands in one establishment and the coffee and croissants in another. We indulged ourselves over breakfast, lunch and dinner. A highlight for me besides the Sunday morning chocolate crepes served by our motel, was the fish. It was superb. There must be something in the water in New Zealand that we don’t have because fish always seems to taste better there than here. I noticed a Cooking School but alas no classes were running while we were there. I would have loved to take a unique recipe home and know how it should taste and be cooked.

cooking school — Lots of french with a kiwi twist inspired recipes

All however was not lost. I found something lovely to take home while souvenir shopping. I was on a bit of a mission. Before departure, Melissa and Ben had shared the happy news that they were expecting a honeymoon baby. Our second grand child was on the way! What special something could I buy the baby? It was while I was buying a cute woolly sheep for the nursery that I spied some special baby wool. It was relatively expensive at nearly $14.00 NZ but felt so soft. It was DMC’s 100% Baby, extra fine pure merino wool. Made in Italy, it looks like a 3 ply yarn but knits as a 4 ply. I have never seen it in Australia, so bought two balls of white. Enough to knit a little something. Then Kenn spotted some great buttons and my purchases were complete.

But as every knitter knows, it is one thing to buy wool, another to knit it up. What would I knit with this special wool? A jumper? Maybe booties? Perhaps a little hat? The hat I had knitted Genevieve had been a hit.

genevieve 2 — Genevieve Grace has arrived!

In the end, I decided to knit a cardigan in the newborn to three month size. Luckily vintage is in, for I decided to use a pattern from the ’70s that my mother-in-law, Betty had given me. It comes from Patons Pattern book 792, 10 Baby Knits which, to my amazement is still available on ebay. It was easy to knit and the buttons give it a unisex, contemporary finishing touch, don’t you think? By the way, the cardigan took just one ball of wool! I think a hat and maybe some booties will be making an appearance.

front of cardigan — Heritage pattern with a twist

back of cardigan — It always feels so good when it’s finished!

So what have I been doing since I finished this project? I’ve started a baby blanket which hopefully will be finished by June. It’s definitely not heritage in any way. An interesting project, it’s something to do after I’ve been for my swim and beach walk or perhaps shared a coffee with friends. It’s a wonderful world out there.

beach wallow — The water is so clear and warm at the moment. Perfect for wallowing

Queen Charlotte Track: Day 4

February 2, 2016August 7, 2018 ~ margaretsealey ~ 4 Comments

IMG_20151204_074429 — Mistletoe Bay, Queen Charlotte Sound

REST DAY AT PORTAGE BAY

Like most who tackle the Queen Charlotte Track, we walked the actual track in four days. But as this was our first long distance, multi-day hike, we added a rest day at Portage Bay.

This was mainly my idea. I know my limitations. While I’m up for a challenge, I didn’t want the walk to become a punishment. I knew from past experience, that walking for eight hours up hill and down dale would leave me a trifle knackered. A good dinner and a Pinot Grigio might not be sufficient to restore my spirits. My feet might need rest and some tender loving care if I wanted them to happily walk a further 20 kms to Anakiwa to finish.

So we rested at the Portage Hotel. As we soaked in the hot tub, massaging our aches and pains away, we congratulated ourselves on our decision. Following a gentle stroll in the rain, the weather closed in and we were content to curl up on a comfy sofa before the open fire, meet fellow travelers and hope that the weather would clear overnight.

PORTAGE BAY TO MISTLETOE BAY

After three days of overcast weather, imagine how thrilled we were when we were greeted by sunny skies. The Portage Hotel supplies a courtesy bus that takes walkers up the hill to rejoin the track. There we tackled the hill that would lead the way across the Torea Saddle to Mistletoe Bay.

This is quite a hill but the views from the top were amazing.

IMG_20151204_054947-PANO — The bays just seem to go on forever.

This section was challenging enough. I was huffing and puffing my way downhill towards Mistletoe Bay when a party of Primary School students passed us going uphill. Some were darting up ahead while others were almost skipping up the hill, singing as they went. Such stamina! No wonder, New Zealand produced Sir Edmund Hilary.

MISTLETOE BAY TO ANAKIWA

After Mistletoe Bay, the track takes a downhill turn and it’s easy walking to Anakiwa.

I’m not complaining, love a steady downhill.

There are still wonderful vistas over the sound but the vegetation is changing. There are more flowering plants.

This reminded me of a wild fushia only bigger

But even on this section, the water is beside you, shimmering shades of aquarmarine.

Then, all of a sudden it seemed, we were at sea level, walking through beech forests past little coves with sandy beaches.

IMG_20151204_110437 — Would love to return to explore these beaches

Before too long we reached our destination, Anakiwa. We were sore…and tired…but oh so happy. We enjoyed an ice cream while we waited for our Cougar Line water taxi to pick us up. As we skimmed over the water on our way back to Picton, everyone was quiet, reflective, treasuring their memories of the panoramas of the Queen Charlotte Track.

The Queen Charlotte Track: Day 3

January 23, 2016August 7, 2018 ~ margaretsealey ~ Leave a comment

Day 3

From Mahana Lodge to Bay of Many Coves Campsite

Day 3 was indeed challenging. All along, I had been worried about this section of the track. Not only was it approximately an eight hour, 24.5 km walk from Mahana Lodge to Portage Bay, examination of the elevation map had shown me that I would be walking uphill … a lot. To complicate matters, the weather was even mistier and more overcast than on Day 2.

However, we refused to be daunted. Our gear had dried overnight and it was with a sense of adventure that we set out. The first hurdle, walking a kilometer or so up a steep driveway and road to rejoin the track, was negotiated rather easily. Then I realised I had left my phone/camera in the Lodge. I felt a little like Eeyore as I walked back down, retrieved the phone and walked a little more slowly up the road again. Just a couple of extra kms that I didn’t need to walk! Not that anyone was counting. My feet were not amused.

But the track soon lifted our spirits. Climbing the Kenepuru Saddle, we circled around a valley lost in time.

looking down into the valley — How green is my valley? Even in the rain!

Then the detour to Eatwell’s Lookout appeared. But the clouds were darkening and the mist seemed thicker so we decided that the lookout would have to wait for another trip.

But as this photo from nz.geoview.info shows, on a fine day, it would have definitely been worth walking the extra few kilometers. You can look out over the sounds, all the way to the North Island!

After Eatwell’s Lookout, the track climbs and climbs. I thought that it would never end. Kenn remarked that it was like completing the climb to the Byron Lighthouse, 20 times. No wonder my thighs were on fire! Well as they say, no pain, no gain!

But all good things come to an end and eventually the covered rest shelter at Bay of Many Coves, that Ann Martin had suggested as our lunch stop, came into view.

Bay of Many Coves. View from the lunch shelter.

There, surrounded by the happy chatter of junior high boys on a school field trip, Kenn and I enjoyed our magnificent lunch. It gladdened our hearts to see so many young people on the track having such a wonderful time and not an iPhone or earplug in sight.

Bay of Many Coves Campsite to Portage Bay

Leaving Bay of Many Coves, the track meanders through the forest. The uphills seem a little easier and there is definitely a lot more downhill. Yippee!

through tunnels of vegetation — Tunnels of vegetation

Every now and then, we would come to a vantage point that overlooked the sounds. Even under grey skies, it was breathtaking.

the water is still beautiful under grey skies — The water is still beautiful under grey skies

But as the afternoon wore on, the skies lightened a little and the sun tried to sneak through.

A couple of climbs later, we reached Black Rock campsite. We stopped for afternoon tea and breathed a sigh of relief. Only 7kms to go. And mainly downhill too. As we gently spiraled down into Portage Bay, it was tree fern heaven and at last we were there and the tranquil waters of the bay lay ahead.

the Portage jetty — The jetty at Portage Bay

I won’t lie. We were knackered. We had been dreaming of a hot shower, soft shoes, a stiff drink (well I had been) and something tasty for dinner for many hours. All this and more was waiting for us, at our home for the night, the Portage Resort Hotel.

I thought back over the day. Would I do it again? Definitely! Ann Martin was spot on. Today had been very challenging, but oh so rewarding.

Queen Charlotte Track, Day 2

January 19, 2016May 31, 2020 ~ margaretsealey ~ Leave a comment

**Even in the misty rain, it’s beautiful.**

Walking around Endeavour Inlet.

New Zealand isn’t known as the Land of the Long White Cloud for nothing. We woke on Day 2, to a misty, cloudy day, for our walk around Endeavour Inlet to Mahana Lodge, our destination for the night. This was a relatively easy walk of around 15 kms as our chosen accommodation for Day 1, Cnoc na Lear, was situated on the northern side of the inlet.

Cnoc na Lear to Furneaux Lodge

The mist subtly coloured the landscape, giving it an otherworldly dimension as we walked the 2 or 3 kms to Furneaux Lodge which is located in a wonderful setting at the head of the inlet.

**View from Cnoc na Lear across the Inlet to Furneaux Lodge jetty**

The weather also gave us the opportunity to test some of the gear we had purchased for just such an occasion. I have to say that my Kathmandu merino t-shirt and rain jacket passed the test. I was super comfortable and dry all day. I will admit though, it’s not a look you will see on a Paris catwalk.

**Dressed for the rain in my Kathmandu gear at Furneaux Lodge**

Furneaux Lodge to Miners Camp

This part of the walk passes through ferny forest and traverses the head of the Inlet.

**If you have time to spare, there’s also a waterfall or two to visit near Furneaux Lodge**

And across a suspension bridge over a tumbling creek and on through some open grassland to Miner’s camp.

IMG_20151201_063716 — **Feels like a real adventure when you cross a suspension bridge or two!**

It was in this open grassland that I made my first mistake. As this part of the walk was relatively flat, I hadn’t carried my walking poles, a decision I was to regret. The grass was thick, high and very, very wet. Within minutes, my tights and socks were soaked and my toes were wallowing around in my boots. Not a peaceful, easy feeling! If only I could have parted the grass with my poles, like Moses parting the Red Sea. But Punga Cove was still hours away, so undeterred, we squished and squelched our way on to Miners Camp.

Miners Camp to Punga Cove and Mahana Lodge

IMG_20151201_075832 — **We leave the grassland and climb up and down along the southern arm of Endeavour Inlet.**

We were now on the southern side of the Inlet and this was the most strenuous part of the Day 2 walk. We seemed to be trudging uphill through forest … a lot. There were tree ferns everywhere sprouting forth.

And little coves with private jetties.

It wasn’t only a sea of green. There were flowering shrubs. One which caught my eye was this one. Have no idea what it was but it had a lovely scent.

IMG_20151201_080017 — **Reminds me of an Australian tea tree**

We were rewarded with lovely vistas over secluded coves, perfect for a lunchtime break as we made our way towards Punga Cove and our destination for the night, Mahana Lodge.

IMG_20151201_055922 — **Adrift on a sea of aquamarine**

It was mid afternoon by the time we reached Punga Cove. We passed the DOC campsite at Camp Bay and then passed the Punga Cove Resort. We were tired and for a moment, I wished I had booked our second night here. But about another kilometer further on, Mahana Lodge awaited us.

Here, hosts John and Ann Martin made us feel at home. As we were getting acquainted and selecting our dinner menu for the evening, we discovered that John and Ann had lived for a number of years in Kenn’s home town of Condobolin in central NSW. John had worked at the Agricultural Research Station undertaking research into rabbit control in the early 1970s. They remembered the town and its people very fondly. It’s truly a small world.

Our ensuite room in the lodge was spacious and luxurious. After a long, hot shower and wrapped in a super soft complimentary dressing gown, I enjoyed a leisurely afternoon tea. Ann’s wonderful home baking did not last very long I can assure you.

IMG_20151202_041222 — **The sitting room in the Lodge. That sofa was very comfortable, a great place for a cuppa and a good book.**

**Storm clouds gather over the homestead, as seen from the sitting room in the Lodge**

Dinner in the candlelit conservatory at the homestead was very special and memorable. We enjoyed artisan bread baked by Ann and mussels in white wine as our entree. We chose salmon from the sound, smoked by John to his recipe, over wild rice as our main course which was accompanied by the freshest salad. All ingredients had been picked that day by John from his extensive garden. Food when it’s local and super fresh always tastes amazing. We finished with profiteroles smothered in chocolate and a home made raspberry sauce. Not my usual camping fare I can tell you!

We would have liked to spend longer at Mahana Lodge: explore the cove on the free kayaks, complete some shorter walks around the inlet or watch the glow worms flicker in the creek behind the Lodge.

But the Queen Charlotte beckoned. Day 3, according to Ann, would be challenging yet deeply rewarding!

IMG_20151202_041154-EFFECTS — **Sunset over the cove**

While many like us were on a mission to walk the whole track, we met others who only had the time to explore one section of the track before resuming their travels. The walk around Endeavour Inlet was definitely the easiest part of the Queen Charlotte. Walkers would definitely have time to explore as well as walk. So if the thought of day hikes of 20 plus kms is a little daunting, you can still immerse yourself in the New Zealand wilderness with this part of the walk.

The Queen Charlotte Track: Part 1

December 19, 2015May 30, 2020 ~ margaretsealey ~ 2 Comments

Queen Charlotte from the lookout — **The Queen Charlotte Sound as viewed from the Ship’s Cove lookout**

Finishing the Queen Charlotte, one of New Zealand’s great walks, was an amazing feeling! I was elated that I had actually walked all 70 kms without needing to be air lifted out or having to abandon the walk and take a water taxi back to civilisation. It was challenging and exhilarating but oh so rewarding.

The walk is located on the top of the South Island, just north of Picton. I had been keen to attempt it ever since I discovered that I didn’t have to forgo too many creature comforts. You see, the Queen Charlotte track is accessed by water taxi. For around $100 pp, they take you to the starting point of the track, pick you up at the end and deliver your luggage to your accommodation along the track each day. They will even pick you up along the way if you find yourself unable to continue! This means that you only have to carry a day pack, you get to sleep in a comfortable bed at night and someone else prepares dinner, lunch and breakfast for you. This walk had my name all over it.

The adventure begins

Whatever way you choose to walk the track: guided, self guided or as independent walkers like Kenn and I, you need to stay somewhere before and after the walk. We chose the historic Echo Lodge BnB overlooking the harbour in Picton. Wonderful hosts, Sharon and Russell really looked after us, recommending restaurants and even storing excess luggage for us. After devouring a wonderful breakfast, Russell delivered us to the marina where our Cougar Line water taxi awaited us.

Ship Cove

Soon, we were skimming over the smoothest, incredibly aqua water and before long we were at Ship Cove, ready to begin.

jetty at ships cove — **How clear is this water?**

As we walked along the jetty, we decided to detour a little and look at the monument to Captain Cook.

captain cook monument — **Captain Cook visited here several times on his voyages … but he refused to do the walk!**

But we couldn’t procrastinate for ever. The first climb awaited. This was quite steep and quite long but the views as we trudged and trudged some more were worth it.

view of ships cove after the big first climb — **View of the jetty from on high**

After about two hours of slogging it up a mountain (I would call it a mountain even if the Kiwis would call it a hill), we reached the lookout and decided to stop, enjoy some morning tea and the views. From here you can see both the Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds. So beautiful!

Keperu sound — **Kenepuru Sound – Is that a jetty way down there?**

The track then winds down into Resolution Bay and on through ferny forests to Endeavour Inlet.

path from resolution bay — **The path was much wider than I expected**

Kenn and I were into a rhythm, just walking and enjoying the silence. (Well, I was just walking but he was enjoying the silence!) We heard a few bird calls but not much else.

chicks sharing our lunch — **A Weka chick and it’s mother joined us for lunch.**

Not that I’m complaining. I loved that I couldn’t hear any slithery sounds!

Kenn striding out — **And Kenn was always willing to wait for me!**

Four and half hours later, we reached our destination for the night, Cnoc na Lear, about two kilometers from the head of the Endeavour Inlet.

bridge leading to Endeavour Inlet — A mossy bridge guards the entrance to Endeavour Inlet

Our room was very comfortable and private and our luggage was waiting. It’s light until around 9.00pm in December in New Zealand so we had plenty of time to explore the foreshore.

anyone for mussels — **Anyone for mussels?**

Then it was indulgence time. Noeline, our hostess, provided a foot spa for us! Needless to say, after a brief squabble, which I won, we both made use of it. Soon a delicious dinner was delivered to our room as we watched the sun set over the water.

clear waters of Endeavour Inlet — **Not exactly Byron Beach, but still …**

While our stay at Croc Na Lear was lovely, we noticed that it was up for sale at the time so may or may not be available today. In hindsight, we would have made our second day of walking or as the Kiwis say it, ‘tramping’ very easy if we had booked to stay at Endeavour Lodge which has a prime position at the head of the inlet. Prices were very similar as I recall.

Maybe this walk when the Trans-Tasman bubble becomes a reality, is something you would like to do. And I hope you will join me as I re- discover the joys of Endeavour Inlet on Day 2 of the Queen Charlotte Walk.

Rainforest magic

November 6, 2015May 5, 2016 ~ margaretsealey ~ 3 Comments

Would you love to walk down a rain forest path shaded by tree ferns and ancient antarctic beech trees? Follow a cascading mountain steam to uncover a myriad of unique waterfalls? Reach a lookout where you can see the forest meet the sea? If so, then the Tooloona Creek Circuit at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat in the Lamington National Park, is the walk for you!

IMG_20150929_102552 (1) — Water cascading over rocks near Elabana Falls

Although our family has visited the Lamington National Park regularly over the past 20 years, we had never undertaken this particular walk. I had huffed and puffed my way around the 11km Box Tree Circuit, dragged myself achingly, slowly, one step at a time up the mountain from Stairway Falls and nearly had a snake induced heart attack at Python Rock, but I had baulked at the 18 kms Toolona Creek Circuit! It’s not that I’m against exercise per se, but the thought of climbing 1000 metres from Elabana Falls to the ridge line, with a further 9 kms to walk home seemed, well, a trifle excessive.

But Kenn and I are off to the south island of New Zealand in December to walk the Queen Charlotte Track and I knew that some serious training was needed.

So armed with my shiny, new walking boots, I tackled this walk accompanied by Kenn, my daughter, Lyndsay and her fiance Reece. I’m great at walking down hills so the first six kms were easy, We cruised down to Elabana Falls passing beautiful stands of tree ferns and listening to birdsong. We stopped for morning tea at the aptly named Picnic rock and refreshed, were ready to tackle the Toolona Creek section of the walk.

IMG_20150929_115614 — Cascades running over river rocks

Initially, we followed the creek and were delighted by fern encrusted cascades of water rippling over mossy rocks. Then, a couple of creek crossings later, we started to climb. To my surprise, this was much easier than I thought it would be. The track was quite rocky and damp, so we had to be careful and go slow. This suited me perfectly. I certainly haven’t inherited any mountain goat genes!

Around every second bend we encountered a new part of the creek cascading down a unique waterfall. Each one was different, each one was lovely! We counted 17 different waterfalls in total along this section ranging from cascades to the spectacular Toolona Falls.

IMG_20150929_110845 — This is so pretty!

IMG_20150929_113335 — Like a veil, covering the rocks.

Tooloona Falls reworked by google photos! — Tooloona Falls. photo by me, reworked by google photos! Nice…I think.

Not only were the waterfalls wonderful but the rain forest itself was spectacular. Along this section there were ferny tree gardens growing in the canopy. But all good things come to an end and before we knew it we were on the Border Track.

Near to the intersection of the Tooloona Creek and Border tracks, there is a wonderful lookout with a spectacular view, where we stopped for a well earned lunch.

View from the Border track to Mount Warning and the Pacific Ocean.

Although we still had to walk 9 kms to O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat, this was quite easy as it was mainly downhill. About halfway home, we encountered the Antarctic Beeches. These are amazing trees, remnants of when Australia was part of Gondwana! This is a wonderful part of the rain forest, so dark and so deep. All too soon, we were back. Ready to enjoy Happy Hour and watch the sun set over the ranges.

The Toolona Creek circuit is located in the Lamington National Park in the Gold Coast Hinterland, about two and a half hours drive from Byron Bay. We stayed at O’Reilly’s Guest House in a Rainforest Villa which was a wonderful experience in itself. We didn’t have time luxuriate in the Lost World Spa, one of the many amenities at the resort, but next time it’s definitely on our list of things to do. Maybe you would like to join us some time?

Lady Golfers Rule!

October 21, 2015May 5, 2016 ~ margaretsealey ~ Leave a comment

I’ve discovered that lady golfers, to quote Lady Macbeth, “are full of the milk of human kindness.”

Over the past year, my golfing journey has had many ups and downs. There have been many days when my body just didn’t want to do what I was telling it to do. I thought I was following instructions but discovered that what I thought I was doing and what I was actually doing were poles apart. I was standing too far or too close to the ball and as a consequence was aerating grass that really didn’t want to be aerated. My grip was wrong ( I realise now that I was holding it in a manner reminiscent of Barney Rubble) and unbeknownst to me, I lifted my head. To make matters worse, my feet were always pointing in the wrong direction (no wonder so many of my balls seemed to have a love connection with the trees) and my weight was too far on the back foot. (Just as well that there aren’t any rabbits on the course because I would have wiped them out with my ground hugging torpedoes.) As well, far too often, my swing was too fast or my follow through was on the nose, literally!

We're all getting closer to the pin! Yay! — We’re all getting closer to the pin! Yay!

But someone once said that the first thing golf teaches you is humility and that’s so true. But I’ve also discovered that it’s the empathy and encouragement that a beginner receives from lady golfers in particular, that gives them the patience to keep practicing, the will to keep on going.

Nicky keeping a watchful eye on us all as the storm clouds gather.

Our Golf Pro, Nicky Dickon never gets impatient, never seems to mind repetition and always finds something positive in your game. The lady members, go out of their way to welcome us and share ‘secret lady golfers’ business’ with us. My golfing group is always supportive, never noticing the bad shots and always praising the good ones. Their company, as we enjoy our coffee after our lesson, is always fun and adds a wonderful social dimension to my week.

IMG_20150818_115850 — Annie and I remembered to park down the bottom this time! The hill to the club house is very, very steep.

The first hole at Teven Golf Course. Annie and I had such fun! Lunch at Lennox was good too.

Because of their support, I have ventured onto other courses, notably Teven and Byron Bay and participated in my first invitational. There have been increasingly more days when I seem to be one with the ball. Days when my drive goes straight down the fairway and not into a hazard, my iron shots see some airtime and my chip shots land within coo-ee of a pin, welcoming in my ball with open arms. Par at last!

Whale Mugging

August 18, 2015May 5, 2016 ~ margaretsealey ~ Leave a comment

In winter, as you walk around the lighthouse in Byron Bay, you can see Humpback whales on their annual migration to the Great Barrier Reef. From numerous vantage points, as you peruse the ocean, you may catch sight of these magnificent creatures spouting and occasionally breaching. Although it is always a thrill, indeed I feel cheated if I walk and don’t see any whales, I am always aware that I’m on the land and they’re in the sea, a long way away.

A WHALE OF A TIME BEGINS

I longed to get up close and personal, so last week, Kenn and I embarked on a whale watching trip to Hervey Bay, approximately 450 kms north of Byron Bay. We traveled mid week, hoping to avoid the crowds and chose to stay at the Mantra hotel located on the Boat harbour at Urangan. Our room came complete with a very comfortable king size bed, a spa bath and a balcony with a view over the harbour. Perfect spot for admiring sunrise and sunset.

Sunset over the Harbour — Definitely a room with a view.

Having settled in, we explored our surroundings. We confirmed our booking for our Whale Watch on Quick Cat II. We selected the Day Away for Early Birds tour which included a half day whale watching adventure and an afternoon at Kingfisher Bay on Fraser Island. That sorted, Kenn and I chilled out for a couple of hours before salivating over a sensational seafood dinner at La Baelana Cafe on the boardwalk, just a few steps from our hotel. The Hervey Bay prawns and scallops were better than a Masterchef finale. I would recommend booking, as this cafe is very popular.

WHALE MUGGING!

Friday morning dawned calm and clear: perfect conditions for whale watching. The Quick Cat II was underway promptly at 7am and breakfast, consisting of fresh fruit, cereals, pancakes and muffins, was served as we made our way past Fraser Island into the bay. Soon, we were in Whale territory. Several pods were steaming towards us. The captain cut the engines and the magic began as they swam up to our boat.

I couldn’t believe it, they were right there and I was so close I could see rainbows in the spray as they swam past. Then they dived under the ship to the other side, coming up to look at us. “They re mugging us,” the captain exclaimed. “They can see and hear us, so wave your arms and yell!” Obediently, we waved frantically, yelled and whistled.

coming up — Stand still, I’m taking a mug shot!

The whales must have liked our response for they kept us company for the next hour or so. The sunlight filtered through the water and cast shifting patterns on their bodies as they cruised beside us, just below the surface.

underwater 1 — I’m so cool, just drifting along

Then, when you least expected it, they would breach. The most spectacular breach was right in front of the boat, but I was so awestruck, that I forgot that I had a camera in my hand. Alas I only caught the after splash.

They frolicked the morning away, rolling over to show us their tummies,

swimming away only to return and begin their performance again.

I've got my after burners on — I’ve got my after burners on

But all wonderful experiences come to an end. The sun was directly overhead and it was time to return to the harbour. Our friends of the deep, waved us farewell.

Everyone was quiet as we cruised to Kingfisher Bay, where some of us were finishing the cruise. I think we were all savouring the moment. I overheard a little six year old poppet exclaim to her grandparents, “This has been the bestest day ever!” Yes, some dreams do come true.

Churning it up in Mullumbimby

June 14, 2015May 5, 2016 ~ margaretsealey ~ Leave a comment

If our grandmothers and great-grandmother were stranded on a deserted island, participating in the latest season of ‘Survivor’, I think they could win. They had skills! They could chop wood, start a fire, milk a cow, churn the milk into butter and make cheese.

Whipping up a roast chicken dinner was child’s play: all they had to do was catch, kill, pluck and stuff said bird. Easy … for them. They knew how to turn fruit and vegetables into yummy jam and preserves and create delicious terrines and pates without giving everyone salmonella poisoning … unlike me. They were the original domestic goddesses.

Luckily for mere mortals like myself, dedicated modern day domestic goddesses, like Debra Allard, cheese maker, teacher and dairy godmother, are helping others rediscover these lost arts. I first saw Debbie at last year’s Sample Food Festival which was held in Bangalow, just west of Byron Bay.

Judge Debbie at the R and A Dairy and Cheese Show. — Judge Debbie at the R and A Dairy and Cheese Show, 2015

There she was on stage, demonstrating how hilariously easy it was to make mozzarella cheese in 30 minutes. When the chance to attend one of her classes arose, run by ACE education in Mullumbimby, I couldn’t wait.

I arrived, accompanied by my good friend, Annie Milic. Our ‘dairy’ for the day was all prepared. Taking our positions behind our bain marie’s, we examined our equipment and recipes. We donned head attire, obligatory for health and safety reasons. Suddenly we were transformed into Smurfettes, ready for any challenge.

cheese making — After reading the instructions, the Smurfettes are ready.

Our first cheese was goat feta. This was a little complicated, but by carefully following Debbie’s instructions and keeping a close eye on my thermometer, I was able to navigate my way to curds and whey. The curds were ladled into a large hoop and regularly turned and voila, there was my feta!

All I had to do was take my briny whey home and soak my feta for a week. Then it would be ready for consumption. Apparently, it will last up to six months! Will it last that long in my fridge? Probably not!

But the day wasn’t just about making feta. We also made cultured butter which was truly delicious and paneer. I intend making a spinach and paneer curry with it but haven’t got round to it yet.

As well as learning age-old skills, Debbie provided morning tea (scones with jam and cultured butter) and lunch, a ploughman’s feast. There was crusty bread, Bangalow pork roast, home made pickles, salad and a selection of Debbie’s hand crafted cheeses. I particularly liked her take on blue cheese. All in all, it was a great day and Annie and I will be back for more. Perhaps we will graduate to Brie or Jarlsberg. If you are interested in attending one of Debbie’s classes, you can find details on her facebook page.

Bali Bliss!

June 9, 2015May 5, 2016 ~ margaretsealey ~ 2 Comments

What does Bali conjure up for you? I visualised tropical forests full of exotic flowers and monkeys, rice paddies richly green in the sunlight, temples full of strange images and wooden pavilions adorned with comfortable day beds overlooking inviting swimming pools where I would be waited on by my own personal Ketut. Could I make my vision a reality? Kenn and I had only five days at our disposal. I contacted my niece, Amanda Sullivan who runs a wonderful travel agency in Cowra. Within an hour of my call, Amanda and her team at Dynamic Travel www.dynamictravel.com.au had us sorted. Flights, transfers, an exceptional hotel and very helpful notes on how to stay out of trouble were ours!

We flew with Garuda. To my surprise, it was an extremely comfortable flight. The in-flight entertainment, food and beverage were excellent. The portent of things to come, I wondered? Arrival was easy. My baggage wasn’t searched, no-one looked at me twice and I didn’t get lost in customs. Before I knew it, Kenn and I found ourselves ensconced in a very comfortable car with a friendly driver winding our way through the hills to Ubud.

Our hotel, the Maya Resort and Spa was simply lovely. Our room was very spacious and the bathroom was to die for. There was a lovely outlook from the balcony over the acres and acres of gardens.

Then there were the facilities! Both of us fell in love with the amazing lower pool which overlooked the jungle and the river. We swam leisurely up and down ( I didn’t want to splash other patrons with my attempts at butterfly or backstroke) and relaxed on our sun lounges while the helpful staff brought us drinks and little healthy treats to eat. There was also a lovely yoga studio. It’s always good to have a beautiful view to look at whilst attempting mountain pose.

Lying in the Spa — Bubbles ahoy in the pool

I enjoyed Happy Hour and diligently worked my way through a slab of the cocktail menu. The restaurant was exactly what you imagine a Balinese restaurant should be. Every table overlooked a courtyard with its own pool and frangipani tree. The staff were unfailingly helpful and kind. It goes without saying that the food was fantastic. It was hard to leave the resort for the delights of Ubud. Especially memorable was breakfast. There were special treats like fresh papaya juice, interesting traditional vegetable and fruit porridges and an omelette man. You know it’s good when you can feel the kilos piling on but you can’t restrain.

Then there was the Spa!

This was an afternoon of total indulgence. I was ushered to my private pavilion and greeted by my therapist. My treatment began with a relaxing foot treatment and was followed by a Balinese massage. Every part of me seemed to be floating away. Next came body exfoliation. Stuff ( I’m not sure what – I was too far gone to remember) was rubbed onto me, allowed to dry then brushed off. Then a yogurty cream was slathered on and allowed to sink in. Just as I was almost asleep, my therapist ushered me to my private courtyard shower. There among the flowers, under the sky, I rinsed off before luxuriating in a huge copper flower bath which overlooked the river. Three hours later, I returned to Kenn and the real world. An experience not to be missed!

We did leave the resort to explore this part of Bali. We hired a guide who put an itinerary together for us. He took us to a Balinese Dance performance, Batik making, silversmithing, a traditional Balinese home and a temple celebration where we had to don sarongs and make offerings. It was busy, fascinating and humbling.

We also went to the Kintamani volcano which is amazingly beautiful, visited a plantation and saw Luwak coffee being made. I felt sorry for the civets and couldn’t bring myself to taste the coffee. As far as I’m concerned, poo is poo. We wandered on foot around Ubud, but really only touched the surface. We found the Balinese people gentle, unassuming and unfailingly kind. They take pleasure in the simple things in life symbolised by the offerings they make every day to the gods. Thank you Amanda for making this such a wonderful trip.